The Azores are an archipelago in the Atlantic Ocean. The islands belong to Portugal, although they are located 1500 km away from it. Tourists go to the Azores for nature: geothermal springs, wild forests and lakes, unusual plants and animals. Many people choose the Azores because they are not yet crowded with tourists, especially in winter.
The archipelago consists of nine islands. The largest is San Miguel. My wife and I visited it only. As the locals say, it was the right choice: São Miguel contains a little bit of each island in the Azores archipelago.
My wife and I were inspired to travel by a friend who had been to the Azores and spoke passionately about them. We thought that the trip would be similar to our trip to Iceland. The Azores are also far from the mainland, with a variable climate, many attractions concentrated in one place, and whales swimming in the open ocean.
We flew to the Azores in the first half of October. It was the end of the season there: it was still warm, but tickets were already cheaper and there were far fewer tourists. I will tell you how to organize a vacation in the Azores and see more beautiful places in one trip.
Introductory data
- When it’s in season: April through October.
- Currency: euro.
- Language: Portuguese, locals speak English quite well.
1. Weather
Summer on the Azores is not too hot, up to +24…26 °С, and in winter it is not too cold – up to +15…17 °С. The average temperature in the off-season, in the beginning of spring and the end of fall is +19…21 °С. Subtropical and rather mild climate allows to grow a huge number of bizarre plants.
The weather on the islands is changeable. Heavy rain can turn to dense fog in half an hour, and then the sun can shine so bright you’ll want to go swimming. As a rule, winters are rainy and fogs are frequent. In summer, the weather is drier and less cloudy.
The best month for swimming in the ocean is August: the water warms up to +22…24 °С. During our trip in October, the locals were still swimming. The water temperature was about +19 °С.
It was quite windy on the islands in October. We recommend bringing warm, windproof clothing, especially if you plan to climb to higher elevations or watch whales in the open ocean.
During our trip, the islands were often enveloped by thick fog, when you can’t see anything further than 10 meters away. In such weather, tourists risk not being able to see some of the natural sights. This did not bother us: in our opinion, the fog added to the atmosphere of the islands.
2. How to get there
We live in London. Ryanair flies from there to Ponta Delgada, the capital of the Azores, on Mondays in 2023. The flight is four hours long. After the Azores, we stopped for two days in Porto – it was cheaper that way than flying directly home. Tickets for the London – Ponta Delgada – Porto – London flight cost us 100 GBP per person in 2019. If we had taken the flight without Porto, the tickets would have cost around 110 GBP.
3. Attractions
The Seti Sidadish Lakes are the main attraction of San Miguel Island. They are two lakes of volcanic origin that are located side by side. They are separated only by a small strait. The most interesting thing is that in one lake the water is blue in color, and in the other – green. This magnificent picture can be seen from viewpoints such as Boca do Inferno. Our attempts to enjoy the view of Seti Cidades were not very successful: we came to the lakes twice, but because of the thick fog we could see almost nothing.
The Visit Azores website has several walking routes around the lakes. For example, from the Vista do Rei viewpoint or from Mata do Canário. They are designed to take 2-3 hours.
There is a bus from Ponta Delgada to Seti Cidades, it costs 3€ for a 2023 fare. It takes 2-3 hours to walk to the viewpoints. A cab costs 20 €. Cars drive right up to the viewpoints.
The island of Vila Franca is located near San Miguel. It is a ring-shaped island with a bay with ocean water and a thin strip of sand in the middle.
We decided to go there for a swim. In early October, the air temperature was +23 ° C, and the water temperature was +19 ° C. It was cool, but we still swam a little. It was a pity to miss a chance: when we will be there again. It was very cool. The views were incredible: a beautiful sunset, the ocean all around, and we were swimming in a closed bay, with fish scurrying around under our feet.
Every hour from the nearest town, Vila Franca do Campo, there are boats to the island. The fare is 11 € round trip and the travel time is 20 minutes one way.
Botanical gardens and parks on the islands are magnificent. There are sprawling palm trees, huge ficus trees, and various types of conifers.
In the center of Ponta Delgada is the José do Canto Botanical Garden. There are plants from all over the world. For example, pine trees from Siberia neighbor with ficus trees from Oceania. We enjoyed just walking around the park, enjoying the nice weather and reading the information signs about the plants that struck us with their size or appearance.
Entrance in 2023 costs €10. Next to the botanical garden is a small free park, where you can also shelter from the sun under the spreading crowns of trees.
There is also a beautiful botanical garden in Furnas in the geothermal resort Terra Nostra. Its visit is included in the price of a ticket to the resort – 10 €. Everything looks amazingly well maintained and aesthetically pleasing. A walk through the garden after a soak in the hot pool is a great energizer. We walked for more than two hours until closing time and never got around the whole park.
4. Geothermal springs
Furnas. The Azores are often referred to as South Iceland: there is also high geothermal activity there. On São Miguel, it is best observed in the town of Furnas. Steam rushes out literally from under the ground, around – streams of boiling or just hot water and springs with warm water. It has a metallic flavor.
One geyser site is located in Furnasch, the other on the shore of the lake of the same name. The distance between them is 10 minutes by car. On the shore of this lake, the local dish kozido is cooked. I will tell you about it in the section “National products”.
Entrance to the geothermal springs is free of charge. You can walk along the hills and hot springs and see with your own eyes the steam coming out of the ground. An hour is enough to walk around the springs in the city and on the lake.
The most convenient way to get to Furnas is by car. We drove from Ponta Delgada in 40 minutes. There is also a bus from Ponta Delgada to Furnas, bus number 318, the fare for 2023 is 4 €.
In addition to open springs, Furnas has excellent geothermal spas – enclosed areas with swimming pools equipped for bathing. We visited two of them: Terra Nostra and Poça da Dona Beija.
Terra Nostra is a whole complex: swimming pools, restaurant, hotel and botanical garden. There are five swimming pools: one large one with rust-colored water and four small ones with water of ordinary color. We liked that the temperature of water in them is different: in the big one – warm, in the small ones – hotter. It’s nice to feel the contrast. We spent almost the whole day at Terra Nostra and had a wonderful vacation. Entrance in 2023 costs 10 € per person for the whole day.
Poça da Dona Beija has several small pools with water of different temperatures, from +26 to +40 °C. Between them is a small river with running water, also warm due to geothermal activity. In 2023 the entrance costs 8 € per person for an hour and a half. We liked most of all that there are many pools and you can choose the optimal water temperature.
Both resorts have locker rooms and showers. At Posa da Dona Beija there are lockable small lockers, at Terra Nostra you leave your clothes on benches near the pool and on open hangers. We were at the resorts on cloudy days – in bad weather, lying in the pool with warm water is doubly pleasant.
There were not too many people in October. Perhaps the resorts are overcrowded during the season. I advise you to bring dark or old swimsuits: there is a lot of iron in the water, and yellow stains remain. From light-colored things they will not be able to wash them off. We knew about this in advance from a friend, so we prepared ourselves.
Ponta da Ferraria is a small bay in the west of São Miguel. It is famous for the fact that the ocean water near the shore is heated by hot water streams coming from the ground. You can even find tide schedules online and find out when the water is warmest in the bay. It is said that it can heat up to +27 ° C and higher.
In October, the highest water temperature was from 2 to 3 am. They promised +22 ° C. The night time didn’t stop us. It was quite cool, cloudy and a lot of waves, but we couldn’t help getting into the water. We didn’t feel any warm currents, but we got some adrenaline.
The place is very well equipped for tourists: there is parking, changing rooms, outdoor shower, toilets. Everything is clean, neat and free of charge. You can get to Ponta da Ferraria from Ponta Delgada by bus number 206, but you will have to walk more than 30 minutes from the stop. The fare for 2023 is 3 €.
When driving your car, be careful: the descent to the bay is quite steep. If you’re an uncertain driver, it’s best to leave your car at the top and walk down. The problem is not so much getting down as getting back up, although our old Fiat Punto took the hill at the first attempt.
5. Hiking
Hiking is well developed on the islands. We chose hiking trails on the Visit Azores website. There are more than 90 trails of any complexity, length and even shape – straight and circular. The route is loaded into maps on your smartphone or laptop or saved as a PDF brochure.
All trails are footpaths that were used in the olden days. They run along the most beautiful parts of the island, along the coast or through the highlands. Along the way, hikers see pastures, valleys, lakes, and plants that are found only in the Azores. The hills on the coast offer views of the ocean. Some routes pass through bird nesting areas. The site warns: be careful in the spring when the chicks emerge. The roads are mostly dirt, so wear comfortable shoes with non-slip soles. Access to the trails is free of charge.
We chose the Lagoa das Furnas – São Miguel trail around Furnas Lake. The path started at Lagoa das Furnas Hotsprings Park and went counterclockwise around the lake. We left the car in the parking lot near the starting point of the route. The whole way we admired the beauty of the lake and the beautiful weather and enjoyed the serenity. On the way we met several groups of friendly tourists from different countries.
6. Whale and dolphin watching
The Azores are famous for being close to the migration routes of marine animals, including great blue whales and sperm whales. Many companies on the islands offer whale watching boat trips in the open ocean. The season for whale photography is from April to June: most animals migrate at this time.
We went whale watching with Mobydick tours. The trip took 4 hours and cost 40 € per person, in 2023 the price was raised to 60 €. Unfortunately we did not meet any whales. The captain sadly said that they had seen whales last week, but you can never predict in advance. A pack of dolphins swam next to us for quite a while, but still this trip was the biggest disappointment of our Azores trip.
If you’re seasick, it’s best not to go out in the open ocean: aboard our ship, most of the passengers were seasick. Even if the whales had shown up, people would not have cared about them.
7. Plantations
Pineapple Farm is located in the town of Ponta Delgada. The drive from the city center will take 25 minutes on foot.
Pineapples usually grow in tropical climates near the equator. Thanks to the fertile soil in the Azores, pineapples, which were introduced in the 19th century, are still doing well today. At the local pineapple plantation, tourists can see the fruit in different stages of growth.
Entrance is free of charge. Guests of the farm sample local pineapples and drink freshly squeezed juice at a local cafe. A glass of juice cost €4, a small plate with pineapple slices cost €3.
Tea Plantations. There are several tea plantations in the Azores, the most popular being Cha Gorreana and Porto Formoso.
We visited the oldest plantation in Europe, Cha Gorreana, where you can walk around without restrictions. Tourists are allowed to enter the plantation, walk through all the shops where tea is produced, study the equipment, and watch a movie about the plantation. They are also allowed to taste tea – you can drink as much as you like. Everything is free of charge. In the souvenir shop they sold different kinds of tea, souvenirs and sweets for 1-2 €.
From Ponta Delgada to the tea plantation there is bus number 105, the fare is 4 €. From Furnas there is the No. 110, the ticket price in 2023 is 2 €.
8. Money
In the Azores, the euro is the currency of choice. Most places accept cards, but sometimes we were asked to pay in cash. For example, this is the preferred method of payment in restaurants. Also, bank cards were not accepted at the geothermal resorts. We always take a couple of debit cards, one credit card and about 500 € in cash. This was enough for us on the islands.
9. Housing
We lived in two places, which turned out to be a very good choice: one house was on the west side of the island, in Ponta Delgada, and the other was on the east side, in the town of Povoasan.
A room in a house in Ponta Delgada cost 100 € for three nights. A room in Povoasan with breakfast is 95 € for three nights. Hotels are more expensive, for example a room for two in a three-star hotel costs from 80 € per night with breakfast.
We were fine with our accommodations: the houses had all the amenities and we spent little time there. Both were no more than an hour’s drive from the places we wanted to visit.
10. National products
Cozido is the main dish of the islands. It consists of a substantial portion of meat – chicken, beef, lamb – and local vegetables: potatoes, carrots, cabbage, lettuce. The products are put into buckets and dipped into specially dug holes near the geothermal lake Furnas. Under the influence of natural heat energy the food is stewed for 5-6 hours. When ready, the food is distributed to the restaurants.
Each restaurant has one or more of its own pits next to the lake. The dish is very hearty and the portions at the restaurants are hefty. We ordered one cozido for two, took some home with us and had another meal with it. The cost of a portion in 2019 is 21 €.
Fish and seafood in the Azores are cooked in every form. I recommend you to try them. The most popular and tasty fish is tuna. Octopus, eels, lobsters are also delicious on the islands. I especially remember the grilled octopus caught from the ocean the same day. We ate it at the Cantinho do Churrasco restaurant. A portion in 2019 cost €10.
Pineapples are sampled at a pineapple farm or bought in local supermarkets. In small stores they are cheaper – 3-4 €. Azorean pineapples are small and very sweet.
Tea. Depending on the variety, a 250-gram pack costs 2-4 €. Tea is sold at the plantations.
11. Cafes and restaurants
The restaurants we visited appeared homely and cozy. Everywhere there were friendly waiters who were happy to recommend dishes. The food was delicious and the prices affordable compared to London. The restaurants spoke to us in good English about the food and distracting topics.
The three places we liked the most were:
- Taberna Acor in Ponta Delgada. A nice little restaurant in the center of town with affordable prices. We paid 27 € for two hot dishes and two drinks. In 2023, a hot dish costs on average 20 €.
- Cantinho do Churrasco in Povoasan. An oceanfront restaurant with sunset views. We tried an octopus steak there, as well as a decent classic beef steak. The bill was 30€ for two people: two courses and a liter of excellent sangria.
- Restaurante Tony’s in Furnas. We tried the cozido there and were very satisfied. We paid 25 € for two people. We were served quickly and well, but payment in the cafe is cash only. A portion of cozido here costs from 15 €.
As in any southern country, most restaurants in the Azores close in the afternoon and open in the evening. We recommend checking their schedules on the establishment’s website or on Google.
12. Stores
There are small supermarkets in the cities that sell almost any kind of food. We bought our groceries at the Meu supermarket chain. In Ponta Delgada and Povoasan, these stores were not far from where we lived.
The products turned out to be affordable. Despite the remoteness of the Azores from the mainland, the prices are adequate: beef and pork cost 5 – 6 € per kilogram, sausage – 3 – 4 €, a liter of milk – 2 €. In total we spent 60 € on food.
13. Transportation
Rent a car. To get around the island, it is best to rent a car. Our car was a Fiat Punto. Rent for six days cost 60 €. We paid another 10 € for returning the car dirty. One of the most popular companies for renting a car on the island is Ilha Verde.
A credit card was required to make the reservation. Most companies refused to take a deposit from a debit card or made us take out maximum insurance. This was the first time we encountered this in Iceland. American Express was not accepted everywhere. Be sure to read the rental terms and conditions completely.
We didn’t take insurance for the rental car. I was ready to take the risk: I had read about the traffic on San Miguel and decided that we would be fine without insurance. The traffic on the island is not too busy. The routes are good and often go through beautiful places – hills or the ocean coast.
Buses. It is possible to travel around the islands without a car, but buses run irregularly or with long breaks. Some tourist destinations cannot be reached without a private car. For example, it is difficult to get to Ponta da Ferraria. Check the Rome2rio website for bus schedules and fares.
14. Internet
Since we live in London, internet in Europe was included in our cell phone package. In 2023 you can buy a simcard at the airport for 10-20 €. The price depends on the number of minutes and gigabytes of internet included.
There was stable wifi in the houses we rented. Due to the hilly terrain of the island, there was no connection in some places, especially during the hiking route around Furnas Lake.
15. What to bring from the Azores
Souvenirs from the Azores are very similar to the classic Portuguese ones – they are ceramic tablets or dishes. They are sold in souvenir stores, of which there are many in the center of the capital. Prices start from 3 €.
We bought three different kinds of tea from a local plantation. At the airport, we saw that many tourists had decided to bring pineapple with them.
16. What to bring
I recommend it before traveling:
- Stock up on cash. If you rent a car, you will need a credit card from a foreign bank. Bring warm or windproof clothing. There is quite a bit of wind on Seti Sidadish or the oceanfront. The weather changes frequently. Be prepared for heavy rain and bright sunshine within 15 minutes.
- Bring dark swimsuits for geothermal springs: light-colored things won’t wash off.
