Seychelles has fantastic nature: blue Indian Ocean, white sand, tropical forests and green mountain tops.
My young man and I spent a 12-day vacation there. We were choosing between the Maldives and the Seychelles: we had never been to either of these countries before. In the end we flew to Seychelles because of the weather: May is rainy in the Maldives, and we didn’t want to sit in our room and wait out the downpours.
We organized the trip on our own, we started preparing a month before departure. We looked for routes and other information on travel forums. We also asked friends who had already been there – there were literally only a couple of them.
We understood that Seychelles is not a budget vacation, and you have to be prepared for that. They keep prices high on purpose to limit the number of tourists.
In the article I will tell you how we got to Seychelles, what itinerary we made for 12 days of traveling, how we moved around the islands and what we saw in the country.
What a country
The Republic of Seychelles is a State in the Indian Ocean. It is located in East Africa, about 1,600 kilometers from the mainland, just below the equator. Seychelles is located on 115 islands. Only 33 of them are inhabited by people, the remaining islands are uninhabited coral reefs.
The archipelago was mapped in 1502 during Vasco da Gama’s expedition from India to East Africa. A century later, the British arrived to explore the islands in detail. The first settlement appeared there only in the middle of the 18th century: the French arrived and began to cultivate plantations of cloves, vanilla and cinnamon. The country was named in honor of the French statesman Jean Moreau de Séchelle.
Seychelles has an area of only 455 km². In terms of size, the country ranks 180th out of 194. The largest island of the state – Mahe – occupies one third of the total area of the country. It is home to the capital Victoria. Other large islands are Praslin and La Digue. On them, as well as on Mahe, locals live and tourists have a rest.
Tourism in the country began to develop in 1972, when an international airport was opened on Mahe. Now Seychelles is a popular vacation destination among Europeans, especially the French.
The country has resorts – islands that have one hotel each. For example, on Silhouette there is the Hilton and on Felicite there is the Six Senses. To stay in such a hotel, you need to pay not only for accommodation, but also for transfer – tourists are transported by private boats or helicopters. Surprisingly, such islands are open to any traveler: you can just come to the beach of a luxury hotel and relax there for free.
Some islands, such as Curiez, Muaen and Cerf, are protected areas, where you can only go on a guided tour. There is also Aldabra atoll – a unique natural monument, one of the few coral atolls not affected by civilization. It is located 1150 kilometers from Mahe, and you can get there only with a special expedition.
The population of Seychelles is less than 100 thousand people, mostly Catholics. Since Seychelles is a former British and French colony, there are three official languages: Seychellois Creole, English and French. This is convenient: during the whole trip we never once encountered a misunderstanding.
I can call Seychellois friendly and helpful. During the trip nobody cheated us and did not try to make money on us by imposing unnecessary additional services.
Tourists go to Seychelles for a quiet, secluded holiday away from civilization. There are no significant architectural monuments and a diverse cultural program. Museums are small historical buildings with a small exposition, and galleries are more like shops with paintings. There are no shopping or entertainment centers in the country. But the nature is fantastic.
It is often said that Seychelles is similar to Maldives, but I believe that this is not true. Despite the relative territorial proximity, these countries have completely different nature. Yes, both islands have white sand and blue ocean, but Seychelles still has mountains and tropics. There you can relax in a luxury resort or feel like a savage in the jungle.
The Seychelles is not just about lying on the beach: tourists can go hiking on nature trails for several hours, kayaking, snorkeling and gawking at strange fish. You can also rent a bicycle and ride around the island.
When to go
Seychelles is hot all year round. The rainy season lasts from November-December to March-April. In May, the air temperature on the islands is about +32 °C, and the water in the Indian Ocean warms up to +30 °C. During our trip it was pouring rain for several days. This did not spoil our mood at all, on the contrary, we had a break from the unbearable heat.
How to plan a route
Since our trip was 12 days long, we wanted to stay on three of the most popular islands among tourists.
We spent the most nights – six – on the largest island of Mahé: half after entering the country and the rest before flying home. We allocated four nights to the medium-sized Praslin and two nights to the small La Digue. We built this itinerary based on the availability of our favorite hotels and the schedule of the ferry we used to travel between the islands.
How to get there
Between the islands tourists travel by ferry, small airplane or helicopter. We chose the most budget-friendly transportation – the ferry.
The company that takes passengers on the ferries is called Cat Cocos. They sell tickets at the ticket office at the docks, but I recommend booking them two days in advance at seychellesbookings.com. During our trip, the ferries were completely packed. Even after buying our tickets on the website, we were sent discount coupons for car rentals, excursions, and restaurants. They came in handy.
The ferry ride from Mahe Island to Praslin takes 1 hour and 15 minutes. The boat from Praslin to La Digue takes 15 minutes. The trip from La Digue to Mahe takes 1 hour 45 minutes.
From Mahe to Praslin can be reached by plane in 20 minutes. Flights are operated by Air Seychelles. For ticket prices, please visit the carrier’s website.
There is no airport on La Digue, but helicopters fly there. You can book a flight on the Zilair website.
Housing
Seychelles has accommodation to suit all tastes and budgets. In 2021 we booked it on Booking. More apartments and villas are searched for on Airbnb.
We stayed in two chain hotels, one boutique hotel and an apartment. A month before our trip a lot of things were already booked. We chose accommodation based on location and value for money. Another important condition was a user rating of at least 8.8 on Booking.
Usually I prefer to stay in hotels: I love crisp white sheets and service, but on Praslin all the nice hotels were prohibitively expensive. On this island we had to stay in an apartment, but we didn’t regret it.
Kempinski is a chain hotel. It has a large territory, its own beach and spacious rooms. The hotel is not new, during our stay it was just being renovated. We took a room with breakfasts and dinners – we didn’t like the buffet at all. But the dinner at the a la carte restaurant was one of the best on the islands.
Kempinski has slow service, like everywhere else in the Seychelles. We asked for ice for our room and they took an hour to bring it to us.
Residence Praslinoise is an excellent apartment with a convenient location. It is located in the midst of greenery, but there are a lot of animals and insects, so it is better not to open the windows. The apartments are spacious and clean and were cleaned daily. We were not provided with breakfast and dinner, but we had a kitchen and a nice patio area – we cooked our own food twice in the evening. I consider the apartment to be the best value for money.
Le Repaire is a cute boutique hotel with small but beautiful grounds. Our room was clean but uncomfortable. I didn’t like that you could see from the street who was doing what in their room.
A great breakfast was included, and in the evening we had dinner at the Italian restaurant at the hotel – I recommend trying the pizza and pasta there.
Constance Ephelia is a chain hotel with a huge area. I liked it much better than the Kempinski, although the price is the same. The hotel has two beaches, one of which offers free sapa and kayak rentals. We had a spacious but somewhat old room with a walk-in closet.
The hotel offered a good buffet for both breakfast and dinner. Strangely, water was served for money – 100 SCR for a liter bottle. We didn’t manage to visit the a la carte restaurants: everything was booked a few days in advance. This, of course, spoiled the impression.
Rent a car
In order to save money, we didn’t go to an international rental company. We found a list of local companies on the seychelles.travel website. We wrote to all of them by email or WhatsApp and compared prices. On Praslin we chose UR Car Rental, and on Mahé we chose Mein’s Car Hire.
In 2021, renting a small car like a Kia Picanto or Hyundai Grand with full insurance costs an average of 40 € per day. Discounts are given for longer rentals. Rental companies in Seychelles offer excellent service: employees bring the car to the airport, ferry or hotel free of charge. It is also easy to return the car: you leave it where you agreed and put the keys under the mat. Since it is an island, it is pointless to steal cars there.
Seychelles has left-hand traffic and right-hand drive cars, but you get used to it in five minutes. We were not asked for age and experience.
We received cars in good condition, clean and comfortable. Before and after the rental, we took pictures and videos of all our rental cars just in case. We returned them without any damage. The rental company did not try to deceive us.
In case of an accident, the insurance company will not cover the expenses of an intoxicated driver. You should also avoid parking under coconut palms to avoid damage to your car from the nuts.
In total we rented cars for nine days and paid 320 €. A liter of gasoline in Seychelles costs 20 SCR. We filled up half a tank three times – we spent 50 € on all the fuel.
Tides
There are strong tides on the islands: in the morning you can walk 100 meters in knee-deep water, and in the afternoon the beach disappears – it is simply washed away by the water. There are two high tides and two low tides in a day, with about six hours between each event.
The water level at each beach varies differently. On the island of Mahé it is less pronounced than on Praslin and La Digue. On the capital island, the tide level reaches 2 meters.
The biggest danger at low tide is stepping on a hedgehog, starfish or other sea creatures. The tide can easily carry your belongings into the ocean, so don’t leave them unattended for long periods of time. The water sometimes arrives quickly, and if you’re not a good swimmer, it can be dangerous to swim far out in front of the tide. Forecasters determine their exact times – keep an eye out for this on apps and websites like tides4fishing.com.
Beaches in Seychelles
Beaches in the Seychelles are public – you do not have to pay to enter them. Travelers can visit the beaches of any, even the most expensive hotels. They have toilets, changing rooms, sun beds and umbrellas, but they are available only to hotel guests. Unequipped beaches have none of these things – complete unity with nature.
Many beaches in the Seychelles are similar to each other: white sand, blue ocean and palm trees. Some of them have seaweed and rocks, and some are difficult to swim on because of the huge waves. Here I will list the beaches that I remember the most.
Mahe Island. We spent the first three nights of our trip at the Kempinski Hotel, which is located on Be Lazar beach. We saw some seaweed there, but the water was still clear and warm.
Petite Anse is located by the Four Seasons Hotel. It is a beautiful bay with crystal clear water. There are no waves at all on this beach, so it’s perfect for swimming and snorkeling. I recommend to come there in the afternoon: it is a great place to meet the sunset, and to the beach from the parking lot to walk 10-15 minutes. Back you have to walk uphill, which is much harder to do in the heat.
Anse Intendance is one of the most beautiful beaches in the Seychelles. It can be reached through the rainforest. In this place there is no reef near the shore, so all year round there are strong waves on the beach, which are more suitable for surfing than for swimming. There is a small bar at Anse Intendance, a stand selling coconuts and simple cocktails. To buy anything you need cash, which we didn’t have with us.
Polis Bay is located in the bay of the same name and is surrounded on all sides by green tropical plants, but there are no palm trees on the beach itself – you can’t hide from the sun. I recommend going there in the morning, before 11 o’clock, or after 16. Also the beach is not suitable for swimming: there are meter waves and strong current. But it is a good place for a walk along the ocean: the length of the beach is about 600 meters. It seems to be the most secluded place we’ve been to: we didn’t meet a single person there the whole time.
Port Lone is the beach at the Constance Ephelia Hotel, where we stayed for the last three days of our trip. There are a lot of rocks near the shore and you get the impression that there is a large variety of fish, but there is not. I don’t recommend snorkeling at this beach: it’s boring underwater. Swimming is better in a specially designated area where there are almost no rocks and seaweed.
There are free rentals of saps, kayaks and even boards with sails for windsurfing for guests of the Constance Ephelia Hotel. Any water sport is rare in the Seychelles, so I suggest renting a sap or kayak and enjoying the beauty of the bay from the water. We rented boards for an hour – that was enough time to get to the buoys, sail along the entire shore and return to the beach.
If I’m asked to choose the only one of all these beaches, I’d say Petite Anse: it has beautiful scenery, a place to hide from the sun, the calm weather makes swimming comfortable and snorkeling interesting.
There are two beaches on the island of Praslin that I liked. Anse Lazio is one of the top 10 beaches in Africa according to travelers. In my opinion, it is well deserved. There are huge boulders and sky blue water. There are a lot of fish near the rocks, but you need to be careful: there are dangerous waves, it is easy to hit. Relative to other beaches on the island, this one is crowded. Near the beach there is a cafe and a shower, which is available to visitors of the establishment.
Anse Georgette is similar to Anse Lazio but less crowded, probably because of the road to it. It takes half an hour to get to the beach from the parking lot via the golf course, so I recommend going there first thing in the morning to get there before the heat wave. The beach is attached to the Constance Lemuria hotel, but still not equipped.
The island of La Digue is home to Anse Sours d’Argent, which has been called the most photographed beach in the world. It is famous for its huge boulders and forty-meter palm trees. It is reached through the L’Union Estate Park, entrance to which in 2021 cost 100 SCR per person. The ocean there is shallow – Anse Sours d’Arjan is not suitable for swimming, as well as other beaches on La Digue: either shallow or huge waves.
Grand Anse is a long and wide beach on La Digue. It is difficult to swim there because of the waves and few places to hide from the sun, but in my opinion it is one of the most beautiful beaches. There is a scenic road through the rainforest leading to it. We rode along it on a bicycle. The distance is about 3 kilometers, but on the way there are steep ascents and descents. If you want to avoid such a strain, take a cab in the form of a golf cart. In 2021, it would cost 200 SCR for such a ride.
Mahe Island
The island of Mahé is the largest, home to 80% of the country’s population. It is home to the Seychelles’ only city, the capital Victoria, a university, a commercial port and an international airport.
Victoria. In 1841, a port was established on Mahé and named in honor of the Queen of Great Britain. Victoria, although the capital, is a small town. Its area is only 20 km², yet it is home to a third of the island’s total population.
The town has low-rise buildings and private houses, stores, a market and a few cafes. The capital of Seychelles resembles a small Asian village, except that the roads are paved.
We walked around the city and nothing in it interested me. The guidebooks recommend looking at the Hindu temple Arul Mihu Navasakti Vinayagar. It is indeed the most unusual and colorful building in Victoria, but the structure is quite small and it was erected recently – in 1992. We did not get into the temple: it was closed and there was a service going on.
When I was putting together my itinerary, I noticed that many travelers ignore the main island and go straight to the neighboring ones, which according to reviews are more picturesque. Some stop on Mahe for one or two nights to adapt to the new place, but don’t expect anything special from it. Despite the boring Victoria, I think that the main island of Seychelles is still definitely worth a visit: there are excellent beaches, and in addition you can do trekking and walk around the botanical garden.
Trails. We didn’t go hiking, but from the description I liked the Kopolia trail. Its length is only 1.5 kilometers, but there is a climb to a height of 488 meters. Guidebooks say that the hills offer beautiful panoramic views. Don’t forget to wear comfortable sneakers, put on sunscreen and bring water and repellent.
The botanical garden on Mahe has beautiful plants, a pond and a turtle enclosure. The grounds are small and well maintained. In 2023, entry to the garden costs 250 SCR. Details of opening hours are on the website.
Praslin Island
Praslin is the second largest island in Seychelles with an area of 38 km<². By car, Praslin can be traveled around in an hour. From Mahé, it takes an hour by ferry or 15 minutes by plane.
Compared to the main island there are fewer hotels and accommodation is more expensive, which is why we stayed in apartments on Praslin.
This island is similar to Mahe in its mountainous landscape, flora and fauna, but it has its own specialties.
In the Vallée de Me National Park, there grows the coco de mer, a palm whose fruit is called an erotic wonder of nature: to some, it resembles male and female genitals. This plant is found only in Seychelles, on two islands: Praslin and Curieuse.
In addition to coco de mer, there are other rare or unique plants in the park. There are also birds, mammals and other animals such as the bronze gecko and the black parrot. The park is open daily from 09:00 to 16:00. In 2023, admission to the park costs 410 SCR.
Curieuse Island
In the past, people suffering from leprosy, an infectious disease that affects the skin, were quarantined on the island of Curieuse. At that time, there was no cure and women and men were simply placed in leprosariums in different parts of the island. They were forbidden to have relationships and children to prevent the spread of the disease.
Since 1979, Curieuse Island has been part of the marine national park of the same name and is home to 300 huge land turtles. Some of them are over 100 years old. There is also an enclosure with small turtles on the island – they are kept there for up to five years. Only the park staff live on Curieuse.
The tour lasted about six hours and cost 85 € per person. In 2023, it increased in price to €100. The price includes an entrance ticket to the island, lunch, one hour snorkeling and boat transfer. The distance between the islands is about a kilometer, with a one-way travel time of 15 minutes.
At the end of the tour we were organized snorkeling – we were taken to the stone island of Saint Pierre, given masks and fins. Underwater we were lucky: we met a sea turtle and swam with it at arm’s length. We were told beforehand not to touch the animals in any way: they can bite. I was scared, but it was still the best snorkeling experience of my life. I enjoyed the excursion, I didn’t regret that we spent half a day on it.
The park on the island can be accessed without a tour. To do this, you need to find a private boat transfer and pay the park entrance fee yourself. The cost and opening hours are specified on the park’s website.
La Digue Island
The next stop is La Digue Island, which is a 15-minute ferry ride from Praslin. Its area is only 10 km², so people get around there mostly by bicycle. I was glad for the change of transportation after a few days in a car. In my opinion, you shouldn’t budget more than two or three days on the island: in that time you’ll have time to leisurely explore the local beaches.
We rented bikes from our hotel. There are several rental outlets on the island, and in spring 2021 the price was the same everywhere – 150 SCR per day. If you rent for a longer period of time, the cost will be lower. Although the island is small, you can’t ride around the perimeter of the island because of the topography: the road drops off on the eastern side.
The bad weather caught us right on La Digue. The first day we just rode our bikes in the pouring rain to explore the area. La Digue struck me as the most beautiful and cozy island. We visited two gorgeous beaches and went on a kayaking excursion.
What else to do in the Seychelles
Enjoy the sunsets. Due to its proximity to the equator, the day length is almost the same throughout the year, so the Seychelles offers stunning sunsets at 18:30 all year round. The most beautiful sunset skies I have seen are on Praslin Island.
Hiking trails. We’re not hiking enthusiasts, so we didn’t hike the trails, but I’ve seen enthusiastic comments from hikers in reviews of the islands. The website alltrails.com describes dozens of marked hiking trails on different islands.
We looked at La Digue from the ocean side, visited beaches that can’t be reached by land, and learned how to split coconuts. I did not regret going on this excursion.
Food
Creole cuisine prevails in Seychelles. Fish and seafood are cooked in different ways, served with rice, curry, pumpkin puree. One of the popular dishes is zurit. It’s octopus in coconut curry. The locals also fry bananas.
There are establishments with European cuisine on the islands, but I still don’t understand why salads are made with canned fish and use so much fryer. In 2021, a salad in cafes and restaurants cost an average of 300 SCR.
We had really delicious meals only twice. On Praslin we ordered octopus and fish curry at Pizzeria du Berjaya, and on Mahe we dined on tuna steak at the Kempinski Hotel.
In one of the cafes we had a “heavenly” dessert – local rum “Takamaka” was added to coconut ice cream. We paid 350 SCR for two portions. The employee of the place said that she came up with this recipe herself. It was delicious.
A 15% tax is added to the amount of the bill in Seychelles. There is often an additional service charge of 10% instead of a tip.
Food is bought at markets or mini-markets – there are many of them on the islands. They are open until 19:00-21:00, depending on the day of the week and location. We almost always ate in cafes and restaurants, so I memorized the prices of few products. For example, a coconut in 2021 cost 5 SCR and local beer cost 30 SCR.
We only had a kitchen and the desire to cook in the apartments. For our first dinner we bought bonito fish from locals for 200 SCR. For another 50 SCR they cut it up for us. We wanted tuna, but they didn’t sell it. Bonito is from the mackerel family and we didn’t like the fish. Perhaps our desire not to get poisoned was to blame: we cooked it for too long. The second dinner was simpler: we bought frozen shrimp at the store and made pasta with them.
Transportation on the islands
Cab. Traveling around the large islands is convenient by car: beautiful beaches are located in different points. I recommend renting a car because cabs are expensive. In 2021 for a 20-minute cab ride from the airport to the hotel we paid 60 € . We tried to bargain, but we were immediately labeled that it was inappropriate. Cabs are parked at the airports and you can also order a car through the hotel.
Buses. Seychelles is said to have a well-developed public transportation system, and we did see many bus stops. The fare ranges from 12 SCR. Details are on the Seychelles Public Transport Corporation website.
Money
In Seychelles, the Seychelles rupee, 1 SCR, is the currency of choice. We carried some cash in euros and dollars: both currencies are accepted on the islands, but prices are mostly quoted in euros.
Money can be exchanged at the airport or in banks – the exchange rate is almost the same everywhere. If you bring cash, pay attention to the date of issue: Seychelles does not accept dollar bills older than 2009.
We needed cash only a few times to pay for gasoline, excursions and bike rentals. In total we spent 300 €. The rest of the time we paid by card. Many ATMs on the islands only accepted Visa cards.
What to bring back from Seychelles
Rum. One of the most popular souvenirs from Seychelles is the local rum, which is produced from sugar cane. There are several types: dark, extra dark, white and coconut. In 2021, a 0.7 liter bottle of rum cost 310 SCR in minimarkets. It was cheaper in duty-free: we paid 285 SCR for a liter bottle.
Coconut products. Souvenir shops sell figurines, bowls and boxes made of coconut. Coconut oil, natural soaps and essential oils are also brought from the islands.
Coco de mer can also be bought, as long as the nut has an excise stamp and you keep the receipt of purchase. The fruit in 2021 cost from 200 €. It is much cheaper to make crafts from walnut shells.
What to bring
Before our trip, we bought a few useful things on Ozon. Many people did so – then in Seychelles we recognized our compatriots by their clothes. Surprisingly, it is difficult to buy beach accessories on the islands.
Sunscreens. Due to its proximity to the equator, the Seychelles has a dangerous sun: during the daytime the UV index value reaches 9. For our skin we bought products with SPF 50+: two face creams, lip balm, body cream and spray. We also bought two longsleeves with UV protection and took hats and sunglasses from home.
Snorkeling supplies. We found literally only one place in Seychelles that sold snorkeling supplies, and they were of poor quality. Good thing we brought everything with us – two masks and snorkels and one pair of aqua-shoes.
Seasickness medication. If you are going to travel between islands by ferry, I recommend buying sea-sickness pills. We bought them already in Seychelles.
Safety
Thefts. Before our trip, we had read on forums that due to the long absence of tourist traffic, locals had started stealing from travelers frequently. We did not encounter this. And in general, I don’t remember that we felt uncomfortable on the trip.
Sharks. In 2011, two people were killed by shark attacks a week apart at Anse Lazio beach on Praslin. Prior to that, similar cases had not been recorded for the past 50 years. Despite the rarity of such tragedies, the thought of sharks tickles the nerves.
Coconuts. There is a legend that about 150 people die each year worldwide from falling coconuts. However, Wikipedia, for example, knows of less than 30 deaths since the late 18th century. I don’t know the exact statistics, but I don’t deny this danger in the Seychelles: there are coconuts scattered everywhere.
Insects. The islands have a rich fauna – it’s worth stocking up on repellent and allergy medication. Praslin is mainly inhabited by sandflies – small sand flies. The places of their bites are very itchy, and a person’s temperature rises. It is better not to sit in the sand for a long time, especially near seaweed.
Results
I hadn’t thought about vacationing in the Seychelles before, and for nothing: the nature there is stunning and diverse. Don’t just lie on the beach – I recommend traveling between the islands, and on the larger ones take a car to see as many beautiful places as possible. From a hotel-resort you won’t see the very nature for which you should go to Seychelles. These islands should definitely be visited at least once in a lifetime by those who like to combine beach and active vacations.
To be happy when traveling, you need to be prepared for three things: slow service, hot climate and the cost of the vacation. Seychelles is very stuffy and it is difficult to spend more than 15 minutes under the scorching sun. I don’t recommend traveling to the islands to those who can’t stand the heat well.
You can save money when traveling, but airfare, ferry rides and food on the islands will still cost a lot. You can’t have a vacation in the Seychelles for the price of Turkey.
