In 2018, my friends and I graduated. We wanted to celebrate our graduation in a way that would be remembered for a lifetime.
Someone suggested going to Iceland, and everyone agreed. In the photos, Iceland’s volcanoes, glaciers and hills look as if they had been photoshopped. We decided to see for ourselves if they were real.
For two weeks we traveled 4300 km by car. The journey was not easy: at night the strong wind blew all the heat out of the tent, and some rivers had to be crossed by car. But the views were incredible and there was so much excitement that we wanted to scream at the sight of some landscapes.
Eyjafjallajökull volcano, which erupted in 2010. Hundreds of flights were canceled across Europe because of volcanic ash
What a country
Iceland is an island that sits in the Atlantic Ocean, just above the mid-ocean ridge.
If you’ve seen pictures of green meadows, waterfalls and low mountains on the internet, it was probably Iceland.
The country is famous for its picturesque nature, geysers and high prices. To buy cheaper equipment, Icelanders themselves fly to Norway and shop there, although Norway is considered one of the most expensive countries in the world.
There are only 357,000 people living in Iceland. The locals use a special app so that they do not accidentally marry a relative. The crime rate is so low that the last disappearance of a girl was investigated by the whole country. The biggest threat on a trip can be thieving tourists. But we rarely encountered people at all along the way.
When to go
Icelanders joke, “If you don’t like the weather, wait 15 minutes and it will get worse.” It’s true. Regardless of the season, Iceland is almost always blowing strong winds and raining. The weather is unpredictable: even if the forecast is encouraging, don’t trust it.
We traveled to Iceland in August. In my opinion, late summer and early September is the best time to go. There are a number of reasons for this.
August is the warmest month. Temperatures creep up to +15°C during the day and drop to +8°C at night. During our trip, the sun shone for two weeks and we miraculously did not catch any rain. This is a huge stroke of luck: before our trip, it had rained for three months non-stop. The only problem for us was the strong wind that came up at night and blew into the tent.
In summer, it is easier to drive into the interior of the island. This is important for the tourist: the main beauties of Iceland are located away from the tourist roads. From September to June, travel to the center of the island can be hindered by raging rivers due to heavy rains or road closures, and in winter by snow.
Some campsites are only open from May to September. Thanks to them you can save a lot of money on accommodation: hotels in Iceland are expensive.
In late summer and early fall, Iceland is more likely to see the things that tourists go to the island for. Whales swim into the fjords, icebergs break off from the glaciers and into the ocean, and deadfinches – beautiful birds that look more like a drawing from a children’s book – nest on the shore.
The disadvantage of traveling in summer is high prices. The same car costs 990 € in March and 1500 € in August.
An alternative to August is early summer. You won’t see any birds, but you’ll save money. You also need to be prepared for cold weather. You don’t want to take off your wool sweater even in August, and June is even colder. In other months – without sunshine and under heavy rains – Iceland must be quite uncomfortable.
Money
The national currency of Iceland is the Icelandic krone (kr).
In Iceland you can pay with a card absolutely everywhere. Even in the middle of the island, where there are only satellite phones and no terminals, we were able to pay by cashless card. The payment looked very unusual. First the man made a copy of the front side of the card on a special form. Then he filled in the fields with the purpose of payment and the amount, signed the form and gave us a copy of it. Apparently, later he took this form to the bank, which debited us.
It may not be safe to give your card details. It is better to withdraw cash immediately in Reykjavik or at the airport: we saw ATMs only there. I advise you to have some change on hand. This money will come in handy in the campgrounds to pay for hot water in the shower or for using the washing machine. I had enough 2000 ISK for the whole trip.
Rent a car
Many people hitchhike around Iceland. It’s free, but that’s where the advantages end: it’s long and inconvenient to catch a hitchhiker. Rarely a driver will take a group of three people, and no one will take you deep into the island to the most interesting sights.
It is better to book a car 2-3 months in advance: this way you will get the lowest price. It will be the same as booking a year in advance.
There are many renters on the island. There are large European companies such as Hertz and Sixt. Their prices are higher than local ones and there may be a mileage limit. Sixt will not give a car to young drivers.
Some cars can be driven up to 1400 miles in two weeks, that’s 2253 kilometers. For Iceland, this is not much at all, this distance can easily be traveled in 3-5 days. The rest is for a fee.
Local companies attract with their price, choice of cars and unlimited mileage. Rental conditions are the same everywhere, the main differences are in the car fleet.
The Iceland guide website has a search for rentals. We opted for the company “Lagun-car-rental”. The reviews were good, and they gave us a 20% discount for advance booking, i.e. 320 €. Additionally, the company discounted 20 € for full prepayment of the car. All the cars were under two years old, and there was no mileage limit.
We chose a Mitsubishi Outlander with a diesel engine to drive around the island. It is allowed to drive off-road: only four-wheel drive jeeps are allowed there. The fuel consumption of diesel cars is usually low.
When we arrived at Keblavik airport, we were met by a representative of the rental company. He threw our backpacks into a minivan and drove us to the office 10 minutes from the airport. After checking the documents and reading the contract, we inspected the car:
- Marked all the damage on the scheme of the car in the inspection form – chips on the body, windshield, headlights.
- Checked to see if the underbelly was intact.
- Started the vehicle and checked the operation of the headlights.
- Asked where the tools and spare tire were located.
- The amount of fuel in the tank is noted on the inspection form. You must return the car with the same amount.
All this must be done so that you are not liable for someone else’s damage or don’t give the landlord already expensive fuel. After that, you can sign the documents and drive off.
The car was new and had nice features, like cruise control with distance sensor. The Mitsubishi automatically reduced speed when another car caught up and accelerated when there was no one in the lane. This made driving easier and saved fuel. The car’s systems also alerted a sleepy driver when he or she left the lane.
Renting a car for two weeks cost 1745 €: 1268 € for the car and 477 € for insurance. If you want to save money on car rental, take a regular car. On average, their cost for two weeks starts from 700 € without insurance. But then you won’t be able to get to the interior of the island: a passenger car simply won’t get there.
Insurance
In Iceland, tourists drive off-road. It is easy to damage your car there: rocks that fly out from under the wheels can leave chips, and cobblestones can puncture a tire. In some parts of the island there are sandstorms. Judging by the stories of rentals and travelers’ blogs, after such storms cars are left without paint. Possible damage is estimated up to 20,000 € .
Iceland has a separate type of insurance for each insured event. At first we were confused about them, but then it turned out to be easy. I will tell you about them briefly.
Accident insurance (CDW) is included in the rental price of each car. If an accident occurs due to the driver’s fault, the driver will pay up to 3490 €. This is the so-called deductible. The rest of the costs will be borne by the insurance company.
Other types of insurance are sold in packages by Icelandic rental companies. This is cheaper than buying them individually. There are three types of packages: bronze, silver and gold.
The bronze package costs 27 € day. It includes:
- Car accident insurance with a reduced deductible of up to 690 € – SCDW.
- Gravel damage insurance (GP) with a deductible of up to 98 €.
- Theft protection (TP). If the car is actually stolen, the driver will pay nothing.
The silver package includes all the insurances of the bronze package, as well as insurance against sandstorms (SAAP) and tire blowout (TIP). Tire service in Iceland is expensive: 130 €. The silver package costs 37 € per day.
The gold package has no deductible – the insurance company assumes all financial responsibility. Nice, but expensive: it costs 48 € per day.
When we booked the car, we took the bronze package. In addition, we bought tire insurance on the spot for 99 € for two weeks. It was a mistake: it was safer to take the silver package. After the trip, I realize that all insurance claims are real. Oncoming cars can easily throw gravel on your car, beat up your paint and chip your windshield. We were lucky that didn’t happen to us. But if you are a little less fortunate, prepare to pay a lot.
The exception is theft. Forums tell us that locals leave their cars in the parking lot in winter to quickly run to the store. Cars are not stolen in Iceland: every car is connected to a satellite, and the island is small, so you can’t leave it.
Roads
There are three types of roads in Iceland: paved, gravel and so-called f-roads. They differ in the type of road surface.
The asphalt road is paved around the entire island and is marked on maps as number 1. This is the preferred minimum for a tourist who wants to see a bit of Iceland. The length of the road is 1,339 kilometers. There are popular attractions on it: geysers, Skougafoss waterfall, glacial lake and fjords.
Gravel roads are well-paved tracks that go away from road #1 to small villages and farms. They are not to be avoided if you are going inland.
F-roads are roads that go far inland, such as the F210. They have rivers that must be forded, steep climbs, deep bumps and cobblestones. Therefore, only four-wheel drive jeeps are allowed there. In my opinion, this is the most interesting type of road: it has the most stunning scenery in Iceland.
It is strictly forbidden by law to drive off these roads: it causes irreparable damage to the soil. If a tourist decides to drive off to the side and take a spectacular spin, he or she may face a huge fine. It depends on the damage assessment, which is determined by the court. The largest fine I’ve read about is $12,000. A seemingly empty ash field, but for Icelanders it is priceless land that must be respected.
Sometimes you have to cross rivers on the f-roads. Their depth depends on the rainfall and the river itself. Before crossing a river, you need to understand where the air intake of the car is located. If it gets flooded with water, the engine will be dead forever.
To cross the river, I suggest going downstream at a slight angle. The tracks of previously passed cars on the bank do not guarantee a safe crossing, so choose your own route. To do this, one can cross the river wading. If a person cannot get to the other bank, the car is likely to sink or be carried by the current.
We only came across the deep river once. We didn’t know about it when we built the route. Crossing the river is unpleasant, to say the least: there is always the risk of taking a jeep on a cruise through mountain rivers that end in a waterfall. We could have taken an alternative route, but that would have required a detour and another six hours. That said, we still wouldn’t have avoided the rivers, they just wouldn’t have been as deep. We decided to take our chances.
The water in the river was below our knees – and just above the car’s sill. For our Mitsubishi it was not deep, but we were still scared. We were afraid for nothing: we crossed the river quickly and without consequences. When we drove on, we didn’t regret a bit that we took the risk: the scenery around was incredibly picturesque and memorable.
Our contract stated that rivers could not be crossed. No fine, but insurance didn’t cover the damage. If the car had drowned, we would have bought a new car.
Traffic rules
The maximum permissible speed outside populated areas on asphalt roads is 90 km/h. Within populated areas, the speed drops to 30-50 km/h. I do not recommend exceeding these limits: fines start at 72 € and go up to 1000 €. Our goal was to explore the island, so we were in no hurry to go anywhere.
Blind hills are common on Iceland’s gravel roads. This is a section of the highway after going uphill or before going downhill, beyond which you cannot see the road. You must slow down and exercise caution in front of it. There is nothing to separate the oncoming traffic, there may be a turn, a car or a ditch full of cobbles behind the hill. Don’t assume that if you are in the middle of nowhere, there is no one there. We had a case where we drove for hours on an empty road, but met another car just over a blind hill.
Gasoline
Gasoline in Iceland is expensive: a liter of 95 costs 213 ISK, a liter of diesel costs 214 ISK. There are many gas stations: N1, Olis and Orkan. They are evenly distributed in populated areas – we had no problems finding them. But I still tried to fill up in advance, when there was half a tank of gas left. In the interior of the island, the roads are difficult, so consumption doubles or even triples.
All fuel companies have discount systems, but they won’t lower the price just like that. The easiest way to get a discount is to order a camping card, which comes with a discount card of 10 ISK per liter at Orkan gas stations.
We did not see fuel cheaper than at Orkan. We had a key fob on our car key, which gave us a discount of 4 ISK per liter at Olis gas stations. But compared to Orkan, filling up at Olis was still not favorable.
Housing
Before our trip, we looked at Booking.com and Airbnb.com and realized that renting in Iceland is expensive and impractical. Moreover, it just didn’t suit us: accommodation is tied to time and place.
Most tourists spend the night in campgrounds. There are about two hundred of them on the island. A night per person usually costs 1500 ISK. In addition, you have to pay a tax of 333 ISK per tent for the whole period in the campground. If a tourist stays in one campsite for three days, he will pay 4500 ISK for the tent and 333 ISK tax.
You can save money on accommodation with a camping card. It allows two people to stay free of charge in popular campgrounds. All you have to do is pay the tax. The card cost us 160 €.
The map is sold on the website, at the campgrounds, at the post office or at 10-11 supermarkets. We ordered it in advance by mail so that we didn’t have to look for it on site.
The campsites look like a big field where tourists put their car and tent. Some people make reservations in advance, but we never understood why. There were always free places in the campsites.
Minimal amenities like a restroom are at any campground. Almost everywhere had a kitchen, shower, wifi and power outlets. Showers are usually paid for. It costs a couple crowns to visit, the water is turned on for 5 minutes. Washing in the machine will cost 500 ISK.
To pay for your stay, you need to find an administrator with a terminal. Usually he is sitting in the carriage or making his rounds on a schedule. If the administrator is not there, the reception will tell you the time when he or she will be back. After payment, the receptionist will give you a sticker to put under the car window.
The coolest campground is in Reykjavik. It has absolutely everything a camper needs: free showers, toilets, sinks, grills, information center, tours and more. It is not included in the list of camping cards – you will have to pay 2400 ISK per person per night. It’s worth stopping by there on the first day. Many tourists leave there food that they don’t want to take on the plane, and gas cylinders.
One of the most depressing campsites we have ever been to was located in Vogar, on the way from Keblavik airport. It is a large lawn next to a soccer field. Of the public facilities, there is a small house with a toilet, sink and a couple of power outlets. We didn’t stay long at this campground: we arrived at night, pitched our tent, woke up early and left. We never met the administrator with a payment terminal.
There are no campgrounds at all in the interior of the island. One day we left for the hot springs and realized that we would not be back in time for sunset. On the way we saw a ranger’s cabin. He allowed us to pitch our tent on the lawn and use the facilities of the house, for which he charged us 1500 ISK.
Food
There are chain grocery stores “Kronan” and “Bonus” in the towns. They are open from about 11:00 to 18:00. Smaller grocery outlets operate in the villages.
Icelanders grow bananas and tomatoes in greenhouses heated by geysers. A kilogram of apples costs 288 ISK, bananas 260 ISK.
For the entire vacation, my share of grocery costs was. We mostly bought the basic bachelor’s kit: oatmeal, jam, macaroni, sausages, slices. Water was drawn from rivers and waterfalls. Here are the average prices for food in Iceland:
- chicken, 1 kg – 2035 ISK;
- cheese, 1 kg – 1735 ISK;
- a dozen eggs – 617 ISK;
- tomatoes, 1 kg – 500 ISK;
- rice, 1 kg – 360 ISK;
- white bread – 355 ISK;
- oranges, 1 kg – 308 ISK;
- potatoes, 1 kg – 250 ISK;
- water, 1.5 liters – 220 ISK;
- milk, 1 liter – 155 ISK.
Alcohol is hard to find. In Iceland, it is forbidden to sell drinks stronger than 2.25% in ordinary stores, so there is only beer on the shelves of supermarkets. The rest of the alcohol is sold in alkomarkets at sky-high prices.
The average cost of a meal at the restaurant is 2400 ISK. The portions are large, and you can eat enough for one meal. We ate in a restaurant only once, when we were walking around Reykjavik. Everything was delicious, but expensive.
The queen of all fish in Iceland is cod. In the stores it is sold in different forms. For example, there is vacuum-packed cod puree. This is a very hearty dish with spices and other ingredients, it is more like a thick sauce. One package is enough for four large servings. At Bonus, such cod costs 800 ISK.
Another product that can hardly be found anywhere else but Iceland is rotten shark. It takes several months to cook. First, the sliced shark steaks are placed in a container and covered with gravel. This is necessary to eliminate poisonous substances: sharks have no urinary tract. In this form, the meat lies for 8 weeks, after which it is dried in the fresh air for another 4 months and only then served as a delicacy. Unfortunately, we never found a place where you can try rotten shark.
250 g of imported cherries costs 1529 kr. Next to them are Icelandic tomatoes for 399 kr. They taste like regular cherry tomatoes
What to see in Iceland
After shopping and walking around Reykjavik, we set off. We didn’t have a clear plan. All the main sights are near the road going around the island.
The main rule of traveling in Iceland is to go where you feel it might be interesting. An ordinary and unremarkable road can lead to anything: waterfalls, volcanoes, lighthouses.
The most popular places in Iceland are the Valley of Geysers, the waterfalls Seljalandsfoss and Skougafoss, and the glacial lake Jökulsaurloun. They are located in the southern part of the island. Entrance is, of course, free of charge.
In the Valley of Geysers you can see the hot springs, which under pressure throw out fountains of water and steam. Now one of the geysers acts every 3-4 minutes and shoots at least 10 meters upwards. The spectacle is unforgettable. Geyser spring, after which all such springs are named, nowadays beats once a year or less often. It is located 100 km from Reykjavik and can be reached in an hour by car.
Seljalandsfoss is Iceland’s most “Instagrammed” place and its calling card. The water falls from the cliff into a small lake. If you look at the waterfall from the bottom up, it looks like water is pouring down from the sky.
Seljalandsfoss is worth driving to after the geysers: it is 130 km east of Reykjavík on the main road. It is the only place with paid parking, it costs 750 ISK. Paradoxically, we found the waterfall to be the most overrated place in Iceland: the crowds spoil everything. But the place itself is beautiful.
Skougafoss is another waterfall. It is a 30-minute drive from Seljalandsfoss to the east. Parking is free and there is a steep staircase to the top. The view from up there is great – make sure you go up.
Lake Jökülsaurloun is a lake formed by glacial meltwater and has access to the ocean. It is a three-hour drive from Skougafoss. Large ice floes from the glacier float in the lake. Through a small strait they float out into the ocean. It is hard for me to describe in words the emotion that this place evokes.
Geothermal Springs. Our greatest excitement was finding hotspots – geothermal springs. To simplify as much as possible, this is glacial water that is heated by magma and forms small natural baths. You can steam in them.
Springs are divided into public and non-public. The first ones are good because for a small fee you get a carriage for changing and clear water. But we liked the non-public springs better. Finding them is a real adventure. When we typed in the coordinates, the navigator put the route on the f-road in the middle of nowhere: you drive and do not know what awaits next. The drive to one such hotspot took us about three hours with a river crossing and a walk through a field of volcanic ash. After that, we walked for another two hours. But it was worth it.
What to bring
The sources of all troubles for a tourist in Iceland are rain and wind. If something can get wet, it is bound to get wet. The wind will tear and carry away light things that are not secured, so you should not leave them without clothespins. We dried things during the day in the car by stringing a rope under the roof of the car.
The tent should have a waterproof bottom and strong storm stretches. I advise not to skimp on it, otherwise it can be very uncomfortable. There should also be a “skirt” on the storm cover: it will save you from the wind. We didn’t have one. One of the nights the wind was so strong that the arches of the tent were bent. I went to sleep in the car. It’s not very warm, but at least it doesn’t blow.
Sleeping bag. I advise you to take a warmer sleeping bag, for example with a comfort temperature down to -2 °C. In our bags with a minimum temperature of up to +2 °C it was chilly in the morning.
A hiking mat is needed to cushion the surface and keep you warm when you sleep on the ground. Don’t get a stale fitness mat: it doesn’t hold heat, absorbs moisture, and is heavier than a hiking mat.
Things for cooking. You should take with you a wok, a mug, a plate, a spoon and a knife. Experienced campers buy light-alloy cookware to save on weight. We had an old army kettle that could hold two good portions of pasta. Most of the time you will have to cook on a burner, for which a wind shield is useful.
Trekking boots should hold the shin well, not slip on wet rocks and not get wet. Army boots with water-repellent impregnation are quite suitable as a budget option.
Clothing. It is better to take waterproof pants. Windbreaker should not blow, not get wet and at the same time breathe as much as possible. Even if you go in summer, you should take warm clothes: a set of thermal underwear, woolen socks, a hat, gloves and a scarf. Swim trunks will be useful for swimming in geothermal springs and possibly waterfalls.
Don’t forget a greasy moisturizer. In a couple of days, the exposed areas of your body will have time to get weathered
Two sets of clothes are enough: we can’t wash them often, and we can’t take much. We stuffed all our things into backpacks. Although a suitcase is easier to carry to the car, a backpack is more suitable for traveling around Iceland. If something happens to the car, you can safely continue traveling with the backpack. A suitcase can’t be dragged over rough terrain for long – you’ll have to carry it on your back.
Memorize
- Late summer and early September is the best time to go. Campgrounds are open at this time and it is not so cold outside.
- Cards are accepted everywhere on the island, but it’s best to withdraw some cash at the airport for small expenses.
- You should rent a car from local rental companies: their conditions are better than those of world-renowned companies. To save money, book a car 2-3 months in advance.
- Buy car insurance: it’s easy to have an insurance claim in Iceland.
- If you don’t want to meet a river on your way, build a route on satellite maps and read forums.
- A camping card can help you save money on lodging and gasoline.
