During the New Year holidays in 2018, my friends and I traveled almost all of Portugal from south to north by car. At the end of the trip we had a vacation in Madeira.
Portugal is a welcoming and warm country. It has ancient cities, stunning ocean views, cliffs and beaches. We loved its leisurely pace of life, respect for traditions, friendliness of people and the beauty of everything around us, from city streets to ocean storms and sunsets.
We spent 21 days in Portugal: we saw Lisbon and its surroundings, admired the beaches of the southern coast, drank port wine in Porto and explored Madeira. We spent 8430 β¬ for four people on the trip: since prices are lower in winter, we rented five-star hotels, drove a comfortable rented car and dined in restaurants. I’ll tell you what we could have saved money on and spent less.
π Input data
When is the season: Portugal is warm all year round: +15 Β°C in winter and +25 Β°C in summer. The beach season peaks between August and September.
Currency: euro, 1 β¬ .
Language: Portuguese.
β³ Route
We were going to Portugal unexpectedly. Our trip to Mexico for New Year’s Eve fell through two months before departure: Air Berlin declared bankruptcy and canceled our tickets. We had to urgently plan a new trip: in the fall, tickets and hotels for New Year’s Eve are expensive, and the best deals are gone.
In January there is no influx of tourists, it’s warm and sunny. We decided that we would fly to Lisbon, drive along the Atlantic coast, see the most famous cities – Sintra, Braga, Porto – and spend a week in Madeira.
Our route in mainland Portugal: Lisbon – Lagos – Cascais – Sintra – NazarΓ© – Braga – Porto
π Rent a car
We rented a car twice: for traveling between Lisbon and Porto and in Madeira. I always look for a car on the websites of big companies like Hertz or Avis. This time it was more profitable to rent a car from Centauro, a small European company. It operates in Spain, Portugal, Italy and Greece.
Centauro regularly sends offers for discounts. We signed up for their newsletter and saved about 34 β¬.
A car in mainland Portugal for 7 days cost us 587 β¬. Of which 45 β¬ is a deposit for gasoline. If you turn in the car with the same amount of gasoline with which you rented it, the deposit will be returned to your account within a couple of days.
Almost half of the cost – 247 β¬ – we had full insurance. I didn’t want to skimp on it. In addition to protection against unforeseen situations, it had two other advantages:
- If there is no insurance, the hirer would block 1000-1500 β¬ on the card in case of damage to the car.
- Insurance makes it easy to turn in the car. We just drove to the rental office, parked the car and handed over the keys. It all took 5 minutes. If you don’t have insurance, you have to thoroughly inspect the car with an employee who tries to put all the barely visible scratches from previous trips on the bill.
In Madeira, we rented a car from a local company called Madpoint. Our plane was arriving at night and other rental companies were not working. A Madpoint representative met us at the airport, even though our flight was delayed by an hour, quickly drew up the contract, took 500β¬ and left. We also checked out the car quickly: the company simply asked us to leave the keys to the car at the reception desk of our hotel.
The price was also influenced by the fact that we took a roomy car that would comfortably accommodate four people and luggage. I am used to driving with an automatic gearbox – it is more expensive. A mechanic car can be rented cheaper by about 30%. On the mainland we had a Citroen C4, on the island a Peugeot 308.
Car rental invoice. The Extras line includes the cost of insurance, toll sensor rental and a 10 β¬ charge for non-payment in advance
Gasoline. Our cars had diesel engines. The price of diesel in Portugal is about 1,25 β¬ per liter. We spent 325 β¬ on fuel. I spent 374 β¬ on renting a car. Not a small sum, but I didn’t want to be on public transport on vacation.
π ΏοΈ Parking lots
We didn’t use the car in the big cities of Lisbon and Porto: we rented it on the day of departure and turned it in as soon as we arrived in Porto. Parking in a big city is a quest. There are no free parking lots in the center, it is very difficult to find a place on paid ones. There are no parking lots at the central hotels either.
Paid parking in Lisbon is divided into three zones: green with 0.8 β¬, yellow with 1.2 β¬ and red with 1.6 β¬ per hour. The closer to the center, the more expensive. The maximum parking time in the green and yellow zones is 4 hours, in the red zone – 2. In Porto, paid parking is divided into four zones and costs from 0.4 β¬ to 1.2 β¬.
Parking may be allowed only for local residents – then there will be a sign ZonΓ© de residentes. Or only for cabs – these have a Taxi sign.
Fines for incorrect parking range from 60 β¬ to 300 β¬. If you exceed the paid time, you will be fined 30 β¬. You will have to pay another β¬68 for removing the blocker. And if the tow truck arrives in time, you will have to pay for it, but I do not know the price level. In Portugal, parking rules are strictly enforced.
Sintra was a grand failure for us. The city has a huge number of palaces, parks and monasteries. I spent a couple of days choosing the ones I definitely wanted to visit. But when we got to the sights of Sintra, we just couldn’t park.
I’ve been driving for over 15 years and I’m pretty good at it. But on a narrow road, where cars were parked tightly on the edges, it was difficult even to separate from the oncoming traffic, and it was simply impossible to squeeze into the roadsides full of other cars.
The road to the sights stretches for about three kilometers. We drove back and forth along it three times, but couldn’t find anywhere to squeeze the car in. So we left without having seen Sintra.
Friends told me that they were also in this situation. I advise you to get there early in the morning or take public transportation.
π£οΈ Toll Roads
There are toll roads in Portugal. The prices depend on the section. For example, driving on the A5 highway from Lisbon to Cascais will cost 2.1 β¬. Free roads can be picturesque, but the route is always longer. You need to calculate the way around the toll roads in advance and be on the lookout not to pass the right turn. We decided to pay and not to worry about anything.
When we booked the car online, we checked the box “Renting an automatic toll sensor” in the form. It cost 12 β¬ for a week. The sensor recorded every toll road we drove on. At the end of the trip, we received a bill detailing where and when we had driven on such a highway. The invoice arrived on the day we returned the car by email, the amount in it amounted to 72 β¬. In total, we drove 1479 kilometers on the mainland of Portugal, but how many of them are toll roads, I do not know.
The toll road bill shows the highway and the time to enter the highway
πΆ Money
In Portugal, the euro is the currency of choice. You can pay with a card almost everywhere, but it is better to have some small money with you: stores and cafes often do not accept cards if the purchase amount is less than 5 β¬ . You will be charged a fee for withdrawing cash from an ATM.
Banks are open Monday through Saturday from 08:30 to 15:00. Some exchange offices in hotels and on the streets are open 24 hours a day.
π‘ Housing
When I travel, I book comfortable accommodation: with private bath, good beds, free wifi, breakfast, parking. I like when there is a pool, spa or unusual decoration. I picked up all the hotels on Booking.com. In Portugal the choice is very big, especially in Porto and Lisbon.
We were a foursome and took either two adjoining double rooms or a large house or apartment with several bedrooms. The price range per night was from 112 β¬ for a house in Madeira to 235 β¬ for a huge apartment in the Sheraton five-star hotel complex in Cascais.
Hotel prices in the off season are much lower than in the summer. We decided to splurge a bit and take hotels of a higher category than usual. I compared their prices in summer and winter: in Lisbon the price in summer was a third higher, in Cascais – twice as much, on the coast in the Algarve – four times as much.
In Lisbon, we stayed at the HF Fenix Music Hotel. There was a rooftop pool and champagne for breakfast. It was a bit cold to swim in January, but the atmosphere was very pleasant.
In Cascais, Booking gave us a five-star Sheraton Cascais Resort for half of its actual cost. We were put in a huge room with four bedrooms, three toilets, two balconies, kitchen and living room. For two nights for four people we paid 470 β¬. In the summer of 2021, such a room costs 979 β¬.
In Braga, we rented a huge three-story house. There were several bedrooms, living rooms and bathrooms, a kitchen, a garage, a billiard room, a swimming pool and a barbecue area. It could accommodate maybe ten people.
π° Lisbon
Lisbon is a bright and pleasant city. The first evening we experienced its relaxing atmosphere and the salty tang of the ocean in the air.
Ceramic tiles are everywhere: on houses, in stores and cafes. It’s as if you were in a museum or at a competition of ceramic masters competing for the most interesting pattern. Portuguese tiles have their own name – azulejo.
The city stands on the banks of the Tagus River and has many steep slopes and climbs. You can keep fit by climbing up slides and stairs, or take a ride on the ancient funiculars. There are three of them in the city. The fare costs 3,8 β¬ round trip. Tickets for the funiculars are sold by the drivers.
Usually tourists visit Lisbon palaces and museums, such as the National Tile Museum, the surrounding castles, the Lisbon Oceanarium and other attractions. But we are not fans of sightseeing tourism and are more into just walking around the city and soaking up the atmosphere.
Not everyone knows that there is a statue of Christ in Lisbon. It is a copy of the monument in Rio de Janeiro, but it is 2 meters lower than the Brazilian one. The span of arms they have the same – 28 meters. The face of the statue in Lisbon is even bigger – 4.05 meters versus 3.75 meters in Rio. I didn’t know about the statue either and was very surprised to see it on a walk along the waterfront. Then I read the details on Google.
The statue can be reached by car via the 25 April Bridge or by ferry, train or bus. Access to the pedestal is free, but it costs 5 β¬ to get to the feet of Christ by elevator to a height of 85 meters.
Back in Lisbon, I highly recommend a visit to the Geronimos Monastery. It is the most prominent building in the Manuelino style, the Portuguese equivalent of the Renaissance. For ease of remembering, we nicknamed the monastery Wife-not-husband.
Geronimos is in the Lisbon suburb of Santa Maria de BelΓ©m, 10 kilometers from the center of Lisbon. We walked there – it was 6 kilometers from our hotel and the day was sunny and warm.
The road led through the waterfront, the Maat Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology. The embankment is beautiful, but the museum did not impress me. The basis of the exposition is screens with video recordings. Somewhere you seem to understand the author’s idea, somewhere you don’t. The impression remained oppressive.
We walked for three hours in Geronimouche: I really wanted to see everything. I was surprised by its high vaults, stained glass windows, stone bas-reliefs and airy arches. Entrance to the monastery costs 10 β¬, with a 50% discount for people over 65 and children. The monastery is closed on Mondays and public holidays.
βοΈ Cape Roca and Cape Espichel
These two capes are 80 kilometers apart, but I combined them because the views are almost identical: sheer cliffs, endless ocean, mighty waves. Lisbon is about halfway between them – you can visit whichever cape is on your way.
I don’t like labels like “the westernmost cape”, as they say about Cape Roca, or “the most extreme point”, as they call Cape Espichel. Any raging coastline on the way south from Lisbon will look just as good, but fewer tourists. If your route is close by, Roca and Espichel are worth a visit. If not, I won’t recommend it.
We got to both capes by car, but you can also get there by public transportation. For Cape Roca, take a train to Sintra or Cascais and then a bus. To Cape Espichel, first take one bus to Sesimbra, then another bus to the cape. The buses run rarely, so you need to keep an eye on the schedule to avoid being left alone at night to admire the beauty of the Atlantic.
Both capes are about the same distance from Lisbon.
πββοΈ Lagos
Lagos is the central town of the famous Algarve beach area. There is a 250-kilometer-long series of beaches separated by cliffs and rocks. From Lisbon to the Algarve is about 300 kilometers.
Portugal is one of the few countries in Europe where you can surf. We read in reviews that the best surfing is on the coast of Lagos, but we didn’t manage to check it out. On the day we agreed with the instructor, there was a storm, terrible wind and rain.
We, as steadfast tin soldiers, still came to the appointed place in jackets, hats and rubber boots, but the surf school instructors were not found. Of course, surfing in such conditions would not work. It’s good that we didn’t pay anything in advance.
One surfing lesson in the Algarve costs from 55 β¬. There are programs with accommodation and additional activities like a sports camp for adults. A week in such a surf camp with surf and yoga classes costs β¬320.
Although we didn’t get to go boarding, we didn’t regret coming. The beaches in the Algarve are very beautiful. They are located at a distance of 10-15 kilometers from each other. Every day we chose a new one, went there by car, had a picnic and walked around.
The largest is Meia Praia. There are restaurants and bars, you can rent a sunbed, surf or kitesurfing equipment. Lifeguards work in summer. It is cool to sunbathe and swim in January, the temperature of air and water is +16…17 Β°Π‘. But it is a pleasure to walk and admire.
π Nazareh
I’ve been dreaming of going to Nazare ever since I saw a picture on social media of the huge waves at the local lookout. The waves in Nazare are often over 30 meters. I read that there is the largest underwater canyon in Europe with a depth of 5 kilometers. The waves accelerate across it like a springboard, hit the edge and surge upward with tremendous force.
The place with big waves is called Praia do Norti. The big wave season lasts from late fall to the end of winter. In January we were anticipating an extraordinary sight, but the waves were only a couple of meters high, not as high as a five-storey building, as often happens. The picture was spoiled by a heavy fog, and even the surf was hard to see. We joked that we had come to see the biggest waves in the world, but instead we saw the biggest fog.
Now I know that Nazareth cannot be planned for a certain date: the waves are unpredictable. It is better to follow the wave forecast on special websites and adjust your itinerary to the forecast. Nazare is only a couple of hours drive from Lisbon.
You can also get there by bus. It leaves Lisbon every hour from Sete Rios bus station. You have to go to the Rodoviaria do Tejo stop in NazarΓ©. The journey takes 1 hour 50 minutes and the ticket costs 12 β¬. You can walk from the stop in half an hour.
π¦ Mira de Ayre
About 50 kilometers from NazarΓ© in the Sierra de Aire National Park is the Mira de Aire. It is a huge system of karst caves, one of the seven natural wonders of Portugal. The caves stretch 11 kilometers long and 230 meters deep. Their age is estimated at 150 million years.
The hiking route is 600 meters long and leads to a depth of 110 meters via 683 steps. It was a little uncomfortable to descend so deep in an enclosed space. But the caves are perfectly landscaped, the tourist area is illuminated by three thousand lamps. There are equipped resting places, illuminated fountains in underground lakes.
The cave is beautiful and mesmerizing, but it lacked mystery for me. I try to avoid large crowds of tourists, and there you have to go only together with a group and listen to the guide.
The tour lasts approximately one hour. It is conducted in English and Portuguese. Entrance costs 12 β¬. There is a large free parking lot and a souvenir shop outside.
βͺοΈ Braga
Braga is one of the oldest cities in Portugal, famous for its magnificent 18th century granite mansions, ancient cathedrals and churches, palaces, picturesque parks and gardens. For those who like to visit all the sights in the city, it is better to set aside 2-3 days for sightseeing.
We had one day, we chose only one attraction, the Tibanish Monastery. It’s not on the list of highlights. In my opinion, undeservedly so. I saw pictures of the church at the monastery on the internet and fell in love. In reality, it was even more impressive because of the gilded baroque decor, the snow-white facade, the upper choir area where there were chairs with bas-reliefs in the form of animals or mythical creatures.
The 11th century Baroque monastery itself, with its spectacular elements of wood, tiles and ornamentation, also makes a strong impression. There were few visitors: in three hours we met only a young couple and workers in the garden. The open cells, furnishings, paintings – all this we explored in complete solitude.
Entrance to the monastery costs 4 β¬. The first Sunday of each month is free of charge.
π· Porto
Porto has an amazing atmosphere. At first glance it gives the impression of being dirty and shabby, but spend half a day there and you start to like it.
Porto is the second largest city in Portugal after Lisbon, but it has a small-town charm, where you can easily walk out into the street in what you’ve been wearing around your apartment and take a neighborly look at the nearest shop or bar. It feels like you belong everywhere and you are welcome everywhere. The locals are friendly and welcoming – both the staff in the hotel and store, and passers-by on the street.
We spent three days in Porto. It rained almost the whole time, but the city and the atmosphere fascinated us. There are places where you have explored everything, but you are always glad to be there again. Porto is one of them.
The city is also covered in tiles. It is everywhere: on houses, sidewalks, churches. The Almash Chapel on the city’s central street and the halls of the railway station are completely covered with it.
The historic center, the Ribeira district, slopes down to the Douro River, on whose banks Porto stands. The entire district is a network of narrow, winding streets with colorful and variegated houses clustered closely together. The streets are lined with restaurants and grocery stores, and the atmosphere is always lively and friendly.
Portugal’s most famous product, port wine, was named after this city. Grapes are grown in the surrounding plantations and in the Douro River Valley. There are about 60 wineries in this area of Portugal. They conduct tasting tours that are popular with tourists.
π Madeira
It took almost two hours to fly from Porto to Madeira. We couldn’t warm up much: it was about +15Β°C, but at least we changed our jackets for jackets. On the first day we could even sunbathe by the pool – it was +21Β°C outside.
The most convenient way to get around the island, in my opinion, is by car. We lived on the mountain, enjoyed the view, and drove to the ocean every day. You can tour the island by cab. There they rent them for all day tours. Parking lots in town have price lists posted with routes and prices. Two-three-hour trip costs about 80 β¬. If you haggle, you can get a small discount.
Madeira has mostly natural attractions. I liked the natural ocean pools in the north, the mountain peaks, the huge Monte Park in Funchal and the botanical garden next to it.
Off the coast you can sail on a catamaran and watch whales, dolphins and sea turtles. Prices for boat trips start from 30 β¬ per person.
Many tourists travel to Madeira for the levadas, ancient irrigation canals that have been laid out across the island since the 16th century. Nowadays, many levadas are ready-made hiking trails.
In Madeira’s capital Funchal and other coastal towns we rode funiculars. The price varies, depending on the length of the ride. A ride to Monte Park costs 11 β¬ one way and 16 β¬ round trip. The funicular to Garajau beach is 2 β¬ one way and 3 β¬ round trip.
Beaches. The standard beach in Madeira is pebbles, usually quite coarse. There are few sandy beaches there, and they are not too beautiful.
But in the north, in the towns of Porto Moniz and Ribeira da Janela, there are natural pools on the coast, formed by lava flowing into the ocean. The water in these pools is warmer than in the ocean and you can swim without fear of the surf. The color of the ocean water changes from a piercing blue near the shore to bright blue in the distance. Outside the pools, the water is rough and there are many rocks, so you can’t swim.
π€ Food
Portuguese food can hardly be called exquisite. We have been to restaurants several times, but we did not enjoy the food as much as in Italy. All the dishes, except for seafood, are plain and bland.
Restaurants. The minimum bill in a normal restaurant for two people is 30 β¬. This is the price for two hot dishes and two glasses of wine. Seafood dishes cost 15-22 β¬ per portion.
Tips are usually included in the bill. They are written on a separate line at the bottom of the check as a service charge. If there is no tip, you can leave the standard 10%. Tips are also accepted by card.
Often the waiter will put a set of appetizers on the table by default: bread, butter, cheese, olives, anchovies, pate. If he does not say that it is a gift from the chef, the appetizers will be included in the bill. The price depends on the category of the restaurant – from 3 β¬ to 15 β¬. If you don’t want to try it, you can refuse at once or keep only the dishes you are interested in. In my opinion, it is not worth paying for them.
We took twice: everything was tasteless and stale or unreasonably expensive. The fish pate was particularly disgusting – greasy like butter. The only tasty dishes in local restaurants and stores are fish and seafood. It was these that we took most often.
There is a small cafe in Lisbon called Marisqueira Uma, it is praised on many forums. The cafe is run by two old men. They serve only risotto with prawns and seafood. There are other dishes on the menu, but everyone comes here solely for the risotto. They bring it directly in aluminum pots for two or four people.
A smaller portion costs 13,5 β¬, a bigger one – 25 β¬. The dish is tasty, but only because of the fresh seafood, as the cooking is sloppy. Our rice was overcooked and burnt in places. It seems to me that this is a case when a great place “for your own” with an influx of tourists reduces the quality of food.
Stores. Where we had our own kitchen, we often baked or fried fresh fish. It was very tasty. There is a selection of fresh fish and seafood in almost every store.
In the evening, fresh meat and fish are sold at a discount of up to 50%. After the fish has been weighed and the price tag printed, you can ask for it to be cleaned. This is free of charge. Also in the supermarket you can choose any piece of meat or pieces of different kinds of meat and ask to make mincemeat out of them. You will not be charged for this either.
You can buy oysters cheaply in the stores – 4 β¬ for 10 pieces. They are fresh and safe to eat. A shell knife is sold in almost any Chinese corner shop for 1-2 β¬.
π What to try in Portugal
Port wine. Real Port wine should be tasted in its homeland. Many Port lovers in Porto must go to tastings of different producers. There they serve all kinds of port and vintages of different years. An excursion with a tasting costs from 12 β¬ per person.
Madera. Another local name drink is a fortified wine from Madeira. In my opinion, it’s totally gross, but some people probably like it. It costs from 5 β¬ per bottle.
Bacalhau-a-brush is a national dish of codfish, sauteed onions and fried potatoes covered with beaten eggs. It is decorated with olives and parsley. I can’t say it’s very tasty – just fish and potatoes. In the restaurant it costs 9-13 β¬ per portion.
Feijoada is a Brazilian dish very popular in Portugal. It is made of spicy sausages, smoked pork, beans and cabbage. It turns out to be a kind of stew. It is usually served with white rice in deep plates. In the regions of Portugal, new ingredients are added to the traditional recipe. The most original variant is in the Algarve, where they put cuttlefish meat. It costs from 4.5 β¬ to 12 β¬.
PΓ’tel de nata is Portugal’s most famous dessert. These are layered crispy baskets with sweet custard. The most authentic version of the dessert, Pasteis de Belem, has been sold in the eponymous pastry shop Pasteis de Belem in Lisbon since 1837. The average price is β¬1.5.
π What to bring from Portugal
Port wine is often imported from Portugal. If you do not like sweet strong alcohol, bring wine. Portuguese wine is as good as Spanish wine.
Lovers of local products bring bakalyau – dried salted cod. I guess it is for special connoisseurs. Bakalyau is a half-meter long carcass. It can take up half a suitcase.
Portugal is famous for shoes. Leather sandals, shoes and loafers are of excellent quality and relatively inexpensive. You can buy a pair of ballet flats on sale for β¬20.
A typical souvenir is ceramic tiles and ceramic products. The choice is incredible – from rare tiles at the flea market for 3 β¬ per piece to luxury ceramic tableware worth hundreds of euros.
πΆ Internet
Free internet is rare in public places and cafes. Internet is free at Lisbon, Porto and Madeira airports, but in Lisbon you can use it for half an hour.
Many travelers pick up a Portuguese SIM card from Vodafone at Lisbon airport. The tariff can be selected in advance on the website. A package with internet and calls costs 10-15 β¬ for two weeks.
π« Safety regulations
Portugal is a relatively safe country. It is not scary to walk there at any time of day or night, there are no dangerous diseases and you can drink tap water. All safety tips are dictated by common sense:
Do not take the waves of the Atlantic Ocean lightly: they are not only strong in Nazareth. Many shores are rocky and the surf is doubly dangerous. Never swim in a red flag, even if you consider yourself an excellent swimmer. It means real danger: storms, underwater currents, dangerous jellyfish or predators.
In strong winds, do not get too close to the edge of the cliffs in an attempt to take a better photo. There is a risk of stumbling, and strong winds can literally blow you off the cliff.
Beware of pickpockets. Portugal has a low crime rate, but don’t be too relaxed. Keep an eye on your bag, don’t carry large sums of money or expensive jewelry. In street cafes, don’t leave your belongings on a chair or your phone on the table.
Campfires may only be lit in specially designated areas. You can go to jail if you break this rule.
It is forbidden to smoke in closed public areas. The fine is up to 750 β¬. This also applies to smoking in the rooms of most hotels.
