At the end of April 2019, my girlfriend and I traveled around New Zealand for three weeks.
It became popular among tourists after the movie trilogy “The Lord of the Rings” based on the books by John Tolkien. Many excursions and sights in the country are connected exactly with the filming locations of this movie.
We dreamed of visiting a hobbit village, crossing the road to Mordor and walking along the suspension bridges of the elven forest. We started preparing for the trip three months in advance.
When is the best time to go
The high tourist season in New Zealand comes twice a year: in winter, which lasts from December to February, and in summer, from June to August. In March and April, some local hotels offer discounts and airlines slightly reduce ticket prices.
The weather in New Zealand often changes due to fronts and tropical cyclones: in summer it is +20…30 Β°C and in winter it is about +10…15 Β°C. It rarely rains in spring. We came to the country in the low season, in the fall. The temperature ranged from +15 to +22 Β°C. It rained only two days during our trip.
How we put together our New Zealand itinerary
My friend and I created a google spreadsheet and made suggestions. On the attractions page, we put together the places we wanted to visit. We listed the nearest city, potential places to stay, and a link to a tour. The list included sights from other travelers’ reports.
After that, we decided on the logistics of traveling between the cities, also assessing the cost of the tours. For example, you can get to Hobbiton from Auckland, but it’s more expensive than getting to the city of Rotorua and traveling to Hobbiton from there. And this was the case with almost all tours that don’t involve self-drive.
It was less expensive to drive to a little-known small town than to stay in a large one. It is also cheaper to stay overnight in such towns.
The return flight took less time – 30.5 hours. The connection in Beijing on the way back took 9 hours.
To stay in a hotel or relax in a lounge for free, you had to make and print out a reservation in advance. On the way to New Zealand, my friend and I didn’t go to a hotel. We bought tickets separately, so we were offered different places, but both with low ratings and terrible reviews. Instead, we got transit visas and saw the capital of China.
On the way back, we took advantage of the lounge area at the Beijing airport. We waited for the last flight, sitting in reclining chairs in a darkened room.
We carefully prepared for the long flight: we downloaded movies, music and books. There are sockets built into the seats, but we needed an adapter for Chinese plugs.
We could really use sleep masks and earplugs. We were given plaids and small pillows on the plane. I asked the stewardesses to pour water and tea into my own thermos mug, which is much bigger than a standard mini cup. The Chinese next door also did not hesitate to ask for boiling water to be added to their thermoses: for them, this is generally the order of the day.
Housing
We booked our accommodation on Booking because there it can be canceled for free, and for us it was important. When my friend and I got our visas, we checked the cost of hotels. Some of them we refused because we found cheaper options.
When choosing a hotel, we paid attention to reviews and walking distance from the arrival and departure points of buses. Most often it was three-star motels about a 10-minute walk from the bus stops.
We spent another 4 nights in the New Zealand hostel chain YHA. We rented separate rooms with a shared shower and kitchen. In Mount Cook National Park the hostel of this chain had the most beautiful view from the window.
To save 10% of the accommodation cost, we purchased a membership card for 25 NZD. In 2023 it costs 30 NZD and can only be paid for with a bank card.
Getting around New Zealand
By bus. Before the trip, I met a lot of skeptical reviews that this way of traveling around New Zealand is a waste of time. This is really true if you travel without a plan and try to buy tickets at bus ticket offices in the afternoon. Most likely, it will turn out that the transportation departs once a day and has already left.
We had all the moves planned out, so it was convenient for us to travel specifically by bus.
The buses usually run on schedule. Only once, when we boarded not at the starting point but in the middle of the route, it was delayed for almost an hour. The driver apologized to the passengers and explained that the delay was due to a breakdown. We had one more transfer ahead of us. We warned the driver about it, and he assured us that he would pass the information to the next bus to wait for us. And so it was: we were not the only passengers who had to make this change.
We searched for bus routes using Google Maps, which show travel times and names of carriers. Most often we traveled with Intercity. Its website makes it easy to search for routes and buy tickets.
It is especially convenient that Intercity cooperates with other local carriers and allows you to buy tickets not only for its own company buses. For example, the trip from Twyla to Wanaka had a connection in the town of Tarras. The Intercity bus took an hour and a half to reach Tarras, where a Yellow minibus was already waiting. When it collected the passengers, it immediately drove on. According to the schedule, it took 11 minutes to make the transfer, but we were faster.
We never showed our tickets: all the drivers had passenger lists. Since my friend was the one who issued the bus tickets, we were allowed in using the code phrase “Julia+1”. We were rarely asked for our last name, because Julia is not very common in New Zealand.
During the trip, drivers sometimes talked about the sights outside the window and warned about sanitary stops. Only half of the buses had wifi, although the carrier’s website promises internet on every route.
The luggage compartment on some buses is not at the bottom, but at about waist level. A heavy suitcase is difficult to hand up to the staff member who takes it from inside and puts it in the luggage compartment. I advise you to keep this in mind when packing for New Zealand.
At the Intercity offices we took luggage tags. On them they wrote which station the suitcase was going to, the name and phone number of the owner. We attached the tags to each segment of the route, but, fortunately, the luggage was never lost.
By airplane. We traveled from one island to another by airplane with Air New Zealand, a airline.localΒ It was faster and cheaper than getting to Wellington and then crossing the strait by ferry.
Small airplanes fly between the islands. Stewardesses in ethnically patterned dresses bring drinks and snacks such as cookies or corn chips. Before takeoff, they show videos about safety and the country’s sights. The video offers to pet kiwis, take a boat ride on a crystal-clear lake or climb mountains.
Hobbiton
Hobbiton, the hobbit village from The Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit trilogies, is located near the town of Matamataa. Entrance tickets in 2019 cost 199 NZD, we bought them in advance on the park’s official website. In 2023, they’re selling different categories of tickets there. A two-hour day tour costs 89 NZD, and for 199 NZD they offer a four-hour evening program with dinner. From December 1, 2023, the duration of the first tour will be increased to 2.5 hours, it will include a visit to the hobbit hole. For such a program will have to pay 120 NZD.
Hobbiton can only be visited as part of a group. You will need a bank card to pay for tickets on the website. Independent tourists can buy tickets on site for 89 NZD, but they have to wait for a group of at least 25 people.
An hour before the tour started, we left the city of Rotorua on a special bus, which was included in the ticket price. During the ride, a movie about how Hobbiton was created was shown on the TV screen. The guide talked about the park and about funny incidents with visitors. For example, he advised not to try apples because they were made of wax.
I had a lot of fun looking at and photographing all 44 round Hobbiton doors, mailboxes and other details. The owner’s attributes of each house are well thought out: the fisherman has fishing rods and bundles of dried fish, and the baker has loafs on his table. Curtains and vases are visible behind the window panes.
Bilbo Baggins’ cottage is at the highest point in the village. The oak tree above it is artificial, but it looks very natural. It’s a shame we couldn’t go inside the huts and tour them from the inside. From December 1, 2023, the interior of one of the dens will be available to view as part of a guided tour.
Geysers and thermal springs
There is a thermal lake near the city of Rotorua where there is a spring with gurgling mud and whitish vapors. You can visit it for free. There are plenty of bridges and paths near the lake. It is strongly recommended not to go off the marked path: it is dangerous for life because of the high temperature.
Other places are accessible for a fee. Uai-O-Tapu is an area of high geothermal activity. Its name translates from the MΔori language as “sacred waters”. On the website of the so-called Uai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland you can find out more about the springs and book tickets in .advance Prices start at 32.5 NZD.
Waimangu is a large park that even has special buses running around it. Just to walk around in 2023 costs 46 NZD, tickets are sold at the entrance. Taking a boat cruise on the lake is available for 49 NZD. A combination ticket to enter the water walk costs 94 NZD.
We took a one day combination tour to both of these locations. It included a lake cruise and transportation to the hotel. It cost us 179 NZD in 2019.
As soon as we got off the bus in the town of Rotorua, we could smell the hydrogen sulfide. Because of its size, Waimangu Park is less crowded than Wai-O-Tapu, but we found it more interesting to walk around. The most memorable was the Squashing Frying Pan Lake: because of the gases, it seems that the water in it is boiling, although in fact it is cold.
While cruising around the lake, you can see several geothermal springs from the water. But my friend and I eventually decided that instead of swimming, it would be better to take a longer walk in the valley itself.
Redwood forest with sequoias
The forest of huge sequoias is 3 kilometers from the center of Rotorua. You can walk to it or take a regular city bus. From the stop to the information center to walk another 1 kilometer along a path in the forest. Entrance to the park is free. A walk on the suspension bridges between the trees cost us 29 NZD per person in 2019. In 2023 it will cost 25 NZD.
The tall sequoias are impressive, but the most unforgettable was the hour-long walk across the bridges. They have two levels, the higher one for the most intrepid. In the evening, large wooden lanterns illuminate the forest.
Tongariro Park
Tongariro is a national park in New Zealand, which is listed as a Unesco World Heritage Site. It is a zone of active volcanic activity. Entrance to the park is free, we paid 70 NZD for the transfer to the place.
Tongariro Alpine Crossing is the largest and most interesting route in the park. Its length is 19.4 kilometers. The guidebook promises that visiting the track will change your life. This place became a prototype of Mordor from The Lord of the Rings and some scenes of the movie were filmed here.
For experienced hikers the trek will not be difficult, but for ordinary office workers it will be a test of endurance. My friend and I walked the whole route.
On the way, there is a steep climb with stairs, which is called “Devil’s Steps”. The highest point of the trek is the Red Crater, it is 1886 meters above sea level. After Red Crater, the track goes sharply downhill. My feet slipped on the thick layer of volcanic sand, I had to control every step.
At the summit near the crater, the wind blows hard and it is very cold. Gloves and hats come in handy. You should also bring a supply of water and sunscreen. There are free toilet stalls several times along the way. It is necessary to wear trekking boots, it is desirable to take special trekking poles with you.
Experienced hikers pass the route in 6 hours. We walked all 8: we made stops, had a half-hour lunch at the crater lakes. I am ashamed to admit it, but sometimes we were overtaken by cheerful New Zealand grandmothers.
The firm that organizes the transfer from the hotel to the start of the route and picks us up at the end point allocates up to 9 hours for the trek. We were asked to call if we realized we were running late. We would have to pay extra for waiting.
A bike ride around the lakes
Bike rentals are available at every turn in New Zealand. Information centers have brochures advertising local rental companies, and Bike Rent signs in towns and cities. Bike stores also offer rentals.
Tour operators offer to drive you from the town of Wanaka on the South Island to the start of the route at Lake Havea for 85 NZD. From there you will have to cycle back on your own along a scenic 35 kilometer route.
We really liked the idea of such a trip, but we decided to do without travel agencies. Having judiciously assessed our strength, we rented electric bicycles for a day for 80 NZD. The employee of the office warned that the autonomous movement will be enough for a maximum of 40 kilometers, and we had to travel about 70. We prepared to pedal more on the way there, using the motor assistance only on the uphills.
The route turned out to be very picturesque. The river connecting the lakes changed the color of the water several times. We did not dare to ride our bicycles over the suspension bridge, but walked across it.
Milford Sound Fjords.
These fjords are known for Mitre Peak, rainforests, and Sterling and Bowen waterfalls on the steep banks. The bay is home to harbor seals, penguins and dolphins.
On the official website of the fjords you can find contacts of companies that organize tours and cruises. We chose the company “Intercity” from the city of Te Anau. In 2019 we paid 113 NZD for the tour. In 2023, the exact same cruise costs 179 NZD.
During the cruise, the ship passed rocks and several times came close to water flowing off the rocks. The things I remember most were the green parrots and the short walk to the waterfall during the stopover.
Blue firefly caves
These caves are found in both the South Island and the North Island. We decided to visit them from the town of Te Anau in the south of the country. Tickets are sold at the ticket office and on the caves’ website. They cost 99 NZD in 2023. During the tour, a boat with 10 passengers floats down the underground river for an hour.
It turned out that the blue insects have nothing to do with fireflies: they are actually worm-like larvae of local mosquitoes. They live on the ceilings and walls of caves, where, like spiders, they create long thin sticky threads. Their bright color attracts insects.
As I got used to the darkness, I began to notice the glow around me. The boat was moving slowly, the light splashing of the underground river could be heard, and the scattering of blue lights above me looked like stars. For me, visiting the caves was one of the strongest impressions of New Zealand.
This is the only excursion after which I didn’t have any pictures left: no photography is allowed in the caves.
Mount Aoraki
Mount Aoraki is also known as Mount Cook. It is the highest point in New Zealand: 3724 meters above sea level. From the Maori language, its name translates as “big white cloud”. This place became the prototype of the Lonely Mountain, where the dragon from the movie “The Hobbit” lived.
It is free to visit Mount Cook National Park. We dreamed of taking the Hooker Valley track, which is 10 kilometers long. It is considered very scenic and easy: usually tourists pass it in 3 hours. But when we arrived at the park, it turned out that the track’s bridges had been swept away by a mudslide. It had been raining all day. We only had to walk around the neighborhood.
The next morning the sun came out, but it was time for us to leave. The next morning the sun came out, but we had to leave.
Trekking at Roys Peak and Diamond Lake
These attractions are close to Lake Wanaka on the South Island. Shuttles can be booked at the information center: from there we drove to Roy’s Peak in 2019 for 10 NZD, and to Diamond Lake for 15 NZD.
We didn’t climb the final point of the Roys Peak trek: we were tired from the previous days. But even from the height we climbed to, we had an amazing view of the lake. I would include it in the top three of the best landscapes in New Zealand.
While I definitely recommend visiting Roys Peak, I consider the trek to Diamond Lake optional: its beauty didn’t impress me as much as much else I saw in New Zealand.
Communication and internet
Internet in New Zealand is not that accessible. Almost all hotels had a traffic limit of about 1 GB per day. In Wanaka we were given a code to activate 500 MB of traffic and were insistently asked to save it. You can only come back for the next one when you have fully used the issued one. The internet was not very fast, but still I managed to contact my loved ones via video link.
We pre-ordered a SIM card with 1.5 GB of internet and 200 minutes of domestic calls on the Vodafone website. It cost 29 NZD. But it’s optional: you can also fill out the form on the spot in the store. In 2023, the prices for communication are the same: 1.5 GB and 200 minutes cost 29 NZD, 20 GB and 200 minutes cost 99 NZD.
We picked up the SIM cards near the exit from the Auckland airport, near the monument to the dwarf Gimli from The Lord of the Rings. The registration took no more than 5 minutes. The quality of mobile internet in the country is not bad, and web pages opened quickly.
Food
It seemed to me that New Zealand cuisine was influenced by the culinary traditions of Great Britain. In the morning in hotels, there was usually an English breakfast with scrambled eggs, sausages and hashbrowns – something like our pancakes.
The cost of meals in local cafes in 2019 started from 25 NZD. It is cheaper to take Chinese takeaway noodles: their price is from 15 NZD per portion. Similar to our shawarma doner cost 10-12 NZD. Supermarkets sold ready-made sandwiches for 5-7 NZD.
We ate in cafes about once a day and bought the rest of our food in supermarkets. Most of the hotels where we stayed had a kitchen. There we made salads, sandwiches, cooked ravioli, and toasted toast. There were always tea sets in the hotel rooms. Another of the budget food options is Mexican burritos.
What else to consider before traveling
Active sun. Sunscreen with SPF 50 or higher is a must. Even if you have never been in the sun before. The ozone layer over New Zealand is very thin, so you can easily get burned even in the off-season.
Laundromats. We didn’t have a lot of stuff, so we used the laundromats at the hotels three times. Washing and drying in the machines cost 5 NZD each in 2019. The same price for laundry detergent, but some laundromats offered it for free. We brought some powder with us in a bag, which was just enough. In the public laundries in the city, washing was more expensive: 7-10 NZD.
Laundry turned out to be the smallest but very useful expense on the trip. After 2 hours we were getting clean and dry clothes.
Customs rules. It is forbidden to import anything that can disturb the local ecosystem into New Zealand: fruits, vegetables, honey, fish. A fine of 400 NZD could be issued for a single apple in 2019.
At customs, we filled out a declaration form: there were questions about food, liquids, and even places we’d walked in the last year in the trekking boots we’d brought.
The inspection is similar to checking hand luggage before boarding an airplane. If you are in doubt about the legality of bringing in some personal item, it is better to ask a customs officer. They are friendly and will explain everything. I had a closed bottle of water in my suitcase – it turned out that it could be brought in, as well as medicines for personal use.
Memorize
- It is more profitable to go in spring or fall: at this time is a low tourist season, so the cost of excursions and hotel accommodation is less.
- It is convenient to travel around the islands of New Zealand by bus, but you need to buy tickets in advance.
- Fruit, honey and much more cannot be brought into the country. Just in case, you can check the list of prohibited items before traveling on the New Zealand government website.
- To save money, you can eat at Chinese places or buy food from supermarkets.
- New Zealand’s nature is one big attraction.
