It straddles the Bosphorus Strait, which separates Europe and Asia. The distance between the two airports in the west and east of the city is about 80 kilometers. When I planned to winter in Istanbul and studied the map in detail for the first time, I didn’t understand where to stay. I knew the location of the main sights well, but the scale of the city still confused me.
In this article, I will talk about the seven main neighborhoods of Istanbul. I will advise you on which one to choose if you are coming for a few days or planning to stay for a long time. I will base it on the availability of accommodation, transportation accessibility, proximity to beaches and other features. If you’ve been to Istanbul before, I recommend staying in a new neighborhood each time: this way you’ll get to know this fantastic city better.
Fatih
- Briefly: the most touristy part of Istanbul
- Are there beaches: no
Fatih is the historical core of Istanbul. Byzantine and Ottoman Constantinople existed within the boundaries of this area: the Golden Horn Bay to the north, the Bosphorus Strait to the east, the Sea of Marmara to the south, and Theodosius Walls, a system of 5th century fortifications, to the west.
Fatih includes many neighborhoods that are on the lips of visitors to the city, such as Balat, Sirkeji, Sultanahmet, and Eminönü. The main attractions and tourist infrastructure are concentrated in them.
From New Airport, first take the M11 metro to Gayrettepe station and then take the M2 to Vezneciler. You can also take the Havaist bus to Taksim Square and then take the M2 metro from Taksim Station to Vezneciler.
What to see. There are enough sights in Fatih for more than one trip. First of all, many travelers go to the Aya Sofia Mosque. Tourists are allowed only on the second floor – there you can see mosaics with Byzantine emperors, Jesus and Christian saints and take a closer look at the giant dome. Entrance is paid.
The Blue Mosque is free of charge. Inside, it is decorated with blue ceramic tiles with floral patterns. When I visited the mosque, it was under renovation, so I didn’t get to see much. But the restoration has already been completed, and Google maps users are writing rave reviews: they praise the tiles and the good lighting.
In Sultanahmet Square stand objects that are older than Istanbul – the Egyptian Obelisk from the 15th century BC and the Serpent Column from the 5th century BC. The obelisk was taken from the ancient Egyptian temple in Luxor, the column – from the sanctuary of Apollo in Greek Delphi.
Basilica Cistern is the largest underground reservoir in Istanbul. It is the size of a soccer field, with 336 columns supporting the ceiling. It looks like a fantastic artificial forest. Tickets are purchased online.
From the Byzantine and Roman sights, I also recommend the Grand Palace Mosaic Museum and the Valentus Aqueduct. The skillful mosaics depict scenes from ancient myths, rural life and hunting. The aqueduct is almost a kilometer long and up to 30 meters high. It crosses the busy Ataturk Boulevard. This place can make you feel like you are in Italy or Spain.
For souvenirs, clothes and dishes, tourists go to the Grand Bazaar, a 15th century market. There are thousands of stores and inflated prices. Next door is the Egyptian Bazaar with spices, sweets and tea. It is smaller and more noisy.
The image of Fatih is completed by Topkapi Palace and the Balat Quarter. At Topkapı you can see the sultan’s chambers and an exhibition of medieval weapons. Balat is a former Jewish quarter. Tourists are attracted by the brightly colored houses with three or four floors and the opportunity to observe local life, such as children playing soccer.
Still in the neighborhood, you can walk along the Bosphorus Embankment, Gulhane Park or along Theodosius Walls.
Lodging. There are more hotels in Fatih than in the rest of Istanbul – about 1,500. It is worth booking accommodation in advance during the high season: Easter, May, September and October, Christmas and New Year.
There are no skyscrapers there: apparently, the authorities take care of the historical appearance of the city in this way. The buildings are five or six stories high. Many hotels have terraces overlooking the Bosphorus or Aya Sofia. Some hotels have steep stairs instead of elevators, so make sure to check before you check in.
In the mid-20th century, wooden buildings dominated Fatih, and the neighborhood burned down more than once in fires. Wooden houses are rare nowadays, but Hotel Alp Guesthouse is one of them. It has a terrace overlooking the sea.
Historic neighborhoods such as Sultanahmet and Eminönü are quiet at night. This is ideal for those with sensitive sleepers. The exception is Akbıyık Cadessi Street, where noisy hostels are located.
Transportation. You can get around the main attractions in the center on foot, the distances are short. But if you are tired or don’t have time, you can take a bus, streetcar or metro: for example, take the T5 streetcar from Eminönü to Balat.
The public transport system in the center was developed with care for travelers, it is organized very conveniently. Getting out to other parts of the city is also easy. The streetcar and metro are integrated into a common network.
Other features. Fatih doesn’t have steep descents and ascents like the rest of the city, so it’s great for walking regardless of age.
The downside of Fatih is the risk of running into molesters and crowds in high season. The molesters look out for travelers near the Blue Mosque, Sultanahmet Square, and Aya Sofia. They strike up a conversation in hopes of selling a tour or leading them to their shop. In such cases, I usually politely interrupt the conversation and wish them a good day.
What’s the bottom line. I advise to stop in Fatih for those who are in Istanbul for the first time or have come for a short period of time. There you will be able to walk around the main sights, get acquainted with public transportation and buy souvenirs in one of the many shops.
Beyoğlu
- Briefly: the second most popular tourist area of the city
- Are there beaches: no
Beyoğlu is located on the northern shore of the Golden Horn Bay. Its eastern border is washed by the Bosphorus.
How to get there from airports. From Sabiha Gokcen – take the M4 metro to Ayrılık Çeşmesi station, then take the Marmarae to Yenikapı station, and then take the M2 to Taksim station. Another option is to take the Havabus bus to Taksim Square.
From New Airport, take the M11 metro to Gayrettepe station and then take the M2 to Taksim. You can also take the Havaist bus to Taksim Square.
What to see. In Beyoğlu, first of all, I advise you to climb the Galata Tower. It is 60 meters high and stands on an elevated position, offering a wonderful view of the Bosphorus, the old districts of Istanbul in the south and the new ones in the north.
Arap Cemi Mosque is the only one of its kind in Istanbul. It is a 14th century Gothic temple converted into a mosque. It has a square minaret – formerly a bell tower – and spearhead-shaped windows. Visits are free, but dress is strict: legs and shoulders must be covered, and women wear a headscarf.
The Miniaturk open-air museum contains scaled-down models of natural and man-made landmarks in Turkey, such as the Ataturk Mausoleum in Ankara and the Pamukkale springs. There’s also a look at replicas of objects from territories that used to belong to the Ottoman Empire, such as the Old Bridge at Mostar in Bosnia. You buy a ticket on the website.
Lodging. Beyoğlu is second only to Fatih in the number of hotels, and these are offers of different price categories. In general, housing in Beyoğlu is cheaper than in Fatih. This attracts visitors from poor rural regions of Turkey and neighboring countries with unstable political situation. But, in my opinion, it is safe to walk there both during the day and in the dark – both on the main streets and in the back alleys.
Apartments are often available for rent in Beyoğlu. I stayed for a month in a complex on Kalyoncu Kulluğu Cd. 52 – it’s just off Tarlabaşı Boulevard, within walking distance of Taksim Square and Istiklal pedestrian street.
The apartment had everything I needed: a modern shower, electric batteries, air conditioning, wifi, a kitchen and a view from the window on the tiled roofs. There was no elevator in the building, I climbed up to the fifth floor on a steep wooden staircase, but I was not upset: it was a new experience for me. There are plenty of supermarkets nearby. I was also happy that it was always quiet.
Transportation. Beyoğlu is convenient to live in because of its transportation accessibility. Taksim Square is home to one of Istanbul’s main metro stations, Taksim.
You can take the funicular from the square to Kabataş pier and take a ferry to the Princes’ Islands or the Asian side of the city, to Kadıköy.
Buses from Beyoğlu travel north, for example to the 15th-century Rumeli Fortress. The T1 streetcar line also passes through Beyoğlu: it takes 10-15 minutes to reach the historical sights in the center.
Other highlights. Beyoğlu is charming in its own way, but there are nuances. It is crowded with tourists. This is especially true of Istiklal Street, where travelers buy sweets and sit in cafes.
Unlike neighboring Fatih, Beyoğlu is noisy at night, with nightclubs often located near the hotels.
The landscape of the neighborhood is hilly – I never got used to the constant ups and downs.
What’s the bottom line. Beyoğlu is usually the place to stay for first-time or short-term visitors. Cafes and public transportation stops are close at hand, and the main sights are nearby. But for travelers with children and those who prefer silence, I don’t think the area is suitable: it can be noisy at night.
Kadıköy
- Briefly: a trendy neighborhood on the Asian side of Istanbul
- Are there beaches: yes
Kadıköy is a neighborhood on the coast of the Sea of Marmara in the Asian part of Istanbul. It borders on Usküdar in the north.
How to get there from airports. From Sabiha Gokcen, take the M4 subway to Kadıköy Station or Havabus bus to the stop at Kadıköy Pier.
From New Airport, it’s more complicated: take the M11 metro to Gayrettepe station, then the M2 to Yenikapı station, then the Marmarae to Ayrılık Çeşmesi station, and then the M4 to Kadıköy station.
What to see. There are no historical sights in Kadıköy. People go there for cafes, bars and stores: prices in this area are lower than in Fatih and Beyoğlu.
Next to Kadıköy Kadıköy Produce Market Pier is , a market with fresh fish, fruits, vegetables, cheeses, nuts. In Akmar Pasajı shopping gallery you can buy vinyl records, audio cassettes, used books in different languages, T-shirts with images of rock bands.
In the old Baylan pastry shop you can sample desserts. Karga Bar, an atmospheric bar in a four-storey mansion with wooden elements, is also worth a visit.
Another thing to visit in Kadıköy are the branded stores – for example, they are in Tepe Nautilus Shopping Center and Bağdat Avenue.
Moda Park has a well-maintained promenade and plenty of benches.
There are several beaches in Kadıköy, the most famous one is Caddebostan Plajı. The water there is clean. Entrance is paid, but you do not have to pay extra for sunbeds, umbrellas, showers and toilets.
Caddebostan Plajı is considered to be a family vacation destination with children. The beach season lasts all summer and into September. You can also swim in April and May, but you should be prepared for bracing water.
Housing. Kadıköy is a predominantly residential neighborhood. There are few hotels there – ten times fewer than in Fatih. I liked İkiz Konak Boutique Hotel on the photo. The reviews on Google maps praise the spacious rooms, the quietness, the opportunity to have tea or coffee in the garden.
No noise is an important criterion when choosing a place in Kadıköy: like Beyoğlu, it is considered the center of nightlife. I would definitely avoid Kadife Sokak, a street of bars and pubs.
Transportation. From Kadıköy, you can get to the European part of Istanbul in half an hour by ferry or Marmaray train.
Other features. The neighborhood looks clean. An abundance of bright colors catches the eye in the design of buildings, and graffiti decorates the streets near the pier.
There are as many cats there as there are in the tourist neighborhoods on the European side.
What the bottom line is. Kadıköy deserves to be visited once or twice for a full day. Despite its status as a trendy neighborhood with coffee shops and stores, it is not overloaded with tourists. But, in my opinion, it is inconvenient for a traveler to live in this area: for the sake of historical sights, you’ll have to drive across the strait, and it can be noisy at night.
Bakırköy
- Briefly: bedroom community with a hint of a southern resort.
- Are there beaches: yes
Bakırköy is a bedroom community west of the city center. It is located on the coast of the Sea of Marmara.
How to get there from airports. From Sabiha Gokcen, take the M4 metro to Ayrılık Çeşmesi station and then take the Marmarae to Ataköy station. Another option is to take the Havabus bus to Taksim Square, from there take the M2 metro to Yenikapı station and then take the M1A to Ataköy-Şirinevler station.
From New Airport take the M11 metro to Gayrettepe station, then take the M2 to Yenikapı and then the M1A to Ataköy-Şirinevler. The non-stop way is the Havaist bus to Şirinevler stop.
What to see. There are no historical sights in Bakırköy, except for the Simenoglu family mansion. It is a graceful wooden house – white with a tiled roof. Judging by reviews on Google maps, the Simenoglu mansion is privately owned. Travelers see it only from the outside.
I enjoyed just walking around Bakırköy. It is calm and green even in winter. The atmosphere is relaxed: no one is in a hurry, as if it were a resort town rather than part of a metropolis.
The beaches are mostly sandy. The Marmara Sea in the season warms up to +24 °C. In spring it is only comfortable to sunbathe: water temperature does not exceed +16 °C.
Bakırköy is home to Istanbul’s most famous beach, Floria, but it was closed in 2023 due to water pollution and fenced off. There are free public beaches near Floria, but reviews on Google maps complain about trash in the sand and algae in the water.
From the reviews I was interested in Moon Beach – there is no infrastructure there, but it looks clean and the water is described as clear.
Lodging. There are few hotels in Bakırköy. For the sake of interest, I compared it with Fatih. When booking for May 22-23, 2024 Booking showed me 1400 options in Fatih and 75 in Bakırköy. “Islander” – 600 and 29 respectively.
Bakırköy is mostly built up with houses where ordinary Istanbulites live. I noticed that many of the complexes are fenced and have a guard station.
In 2020, I rented a studio apartment in the Selenium Ataköy complex. I paid through Airbnb. In the apartment I liked the modern renovation, a large balcony, and the availability of everything you need to cook in the kitchen. I was also pleased with the electric batteries.
Selenium Ataköy residents have access to free co-working space, a gym and a small movie theater. However, the latter was closed because of the pandemic, and I didn’t use the coworking center: it was convenient for me to work in my apartment. But I did go to the gym sometimes.
Transportation. From Bakırköy, you can quickly get to other parts of the city by different modes of transportation. For example, it takes 40 minutes by streetcar and metro to Sultanahmet Square in the center, and 40 minutes to Miniaturk Park by metrobus.
– 30-40 minutes. The Marmaray train takes only 20 minutes to reach the Usküdar district on the Asian side.
Other features. Bakırköy has everything to live for. It is dotted with supermarkets: A101, Bim, Carrefour, Migros, Şok. Migros reminded me of Perekrestok and Bim reminded me of Pyaterochka.
As I walked around the neighborhood, I kept coming across shops with sweets, such as baklava. It was cheaper than in the tourist places in the center. I also came across markets with fruits and vegetables, where they cost less than in supermarkets.
If necessary, I had no trouble finding places to print documents, withdraw money, and buy medicine. I also heard that Bakırköy Galleria Ataköy is famous for shopping centers, Carousel, Capacity and others. But I have not visited them.
The bottom line. I advise those who come to Istanbul for a long time to settle in Bakırköy. It’s quiet there, and there’s a scattering of supermarkets and shopping centers nearby. At the same time, it’s not difficult to get out to the sights often – that’s what I did.
Besiktas
- Briefly: a middle class place to stay
- Are there beaches: no
Beşiktaş stretches along the shore of the Bosphorus from Beyoğlu in the south to Rumeli Fortress in the north. The fortress itself is not part of the district.
How to get there from airports. From Sabiha Gokcen, take the M4 metro to Ayrılık Çeşmesi station, then take the Marmaray to Yenikapı station and finally take the M2 to Levent station. Havabus bus goes to Taksim Square, there transfer to the M2 metro from Taksim station to Levent.
From New Airport, take the M11 metro to Gayrettepe station, then take the M2 to Levent station. Or take the Havaist bus to Beşiktaş Meydan stop.
What to see. The main attraction in Besiktas is Dolmabahce Palace, where the rulers of the Ottoman Empire lived in the 19th and 20th centuries. In contrast to the medieval Topkapi, Dolmabahce was built in a neoclassical style. The rooms are carpeted with silk carpets and decorated with crystal and gold. There you can also look at Ivan Aivazovsky’s paintings of Istanbul. You can buy a ticket on the website.
The 19th century Ortaköy Mosque mosques is one of the most photographed in Istanbul. Tourists are attracted by the baroque decoration: it feels like entering a palace rather than a temple. It is free of charge to enter.
Besiktas is pleasant to walk around: there are no crowds, and the locals are in no hurry to get anywhere. I liked the promenade in the Bebek and Arnavutköy quarters, with colorful yachts and boats bobbing on the waves. The beautiful Yıldız Park with artificial reservoirs and a variety of plants deserves attention. In spring there blossom scarlet, magnolia, tulips. The visit is free of charge.
Housing. Besiktas is where the middle class lives. It is also the commercial center of Istanbul, with office skyscrapers cutting the sky.
There are far fewer hotels in this area than in Beyoğlu and Fatih. On the other hand, there are plenty of hotels with exorbitant prices, such as The Stay Bosphorus and Swissotel The Bosphorus Istanbul.
Transportation. The M2 metro line runs through Beşiktaş, but there is no streetcar. You can get to Beyoglu and Fatih by bus, but transportation is often stuck in traffic jams. The main highway, which runs along the Bosphorus, is congested – at times I thought it was faster to walk there than to take a bus.
Ferries from the piers go to the Asian side of Istanbul, Fatih and the Princes’ Islands.
Other features. The neighborhood is hilly, but you won’t feel it on the waterfront, where the main beauties are concentrated. Tourists in Beşiktaş are few – mostly they stroll along the promenade or sit in cafes overlooking the strait. There are many more locals among the vacationers. But the area can be noisy in the evenings and on match days of the soccer club “Besiktas”: here is its stadium.
What’s the bottom line. I’ve traveled to Besiktas many times and liked everything except the traffic congestion. I think if I flew to Istanbul again for a long time, I would stay there. If you are in the city for the first time and for a short time, it is better to choose another neighborhood.
Usküdar
- Briefly: a working class place to live
- Are there beaches: no
Usküdar is located on the east bank of the Bosphorus – on the Asian side of Istanbul, opposite Beşiktaş, Beyoğlu and Fatih. The Lonely Planet guidebook describes it as a conservative, working-class neighborhood.
How to get there from airports. From Sabiha Gokcen, take the M4 metro to Ayrılık Çeşmesi station and from there take the Marmaray to Üsküdar station. Take the Havabus bus to Kadıköy pier and then take the ferry to Üsküdar pier.
From New Airport, take the M11 metro to Gayrettepe station, then take the M2 metro to Yenikapı station and then take the Marmaray to Üsküdar. Take the Havaist bus to Taksim Square, then take the M2 subway from Taksim Station to Yenikapı, and then take the Marmaray to Üsküdar.
What to see. There are almost no sights in Usküdar, except mosques. The most noticeable in every sense is Çamlıca: it is clearly visible even from the European side. The architects erected the mosque on a high hill, from which it got its name, and equipped it with six minarets. Usually Muslim temples have fewer minarets.
I found the mosque beautiful – it reminded me of Ottoman buildings from the 16th century. The Çamlıca hill itself is also worth a walk: it offers good views of Istanbul, especially at sunset, when the sun is setting over Europe.
Lodging. There are very few hotels in Üsküdar. The cost of renting apartments is not particularly different from the rest of the neighborhood – like everywhere else in Istanbul, housing is expensive, but there is also a limited supply.
Transportation. To get to other parts of the city, Istanbul residents and visitors use the subway and the Marmaray train. Ferries connect Uskudar with Fatih, Beşiktaş and Kadıköy. Buses are also a convenient way to travel around the neighborhood.
Other features. Üsküdar is a quiet neighborhood with elevation differences due to the hilly terrain. There are wooden houses and a rustic atmosphere in places.
What’s the bottom line. Usküdar is a good place to stay for those who came to Istanbul to study or work remotely. I think it would be hard for a traveler to spend an hour and a half every day to get to the sights on the European side of the city.
Shishli
- Briefly about the neighborhood: partly business, partly residential area
- Are there beaches: no
Şişli is west of Beşiktaş and north of Beyoğlu. Unlike the other neighborhoods in this selection, it does not have a coastal strip.
How to get there from airports. From Sabiha Gokcen, take the M4 metro to Ayrılık Çeşmesi station, then take the Marmaray to Yenikapı and finally take the M2 to Şışlı station. Havabus bus goes to Taksim Square, from there take the M2 metro from Taksim station to Şışlı.
From New Airport, take the M11 metro to Gayrettepe station. Or take the Havaist bus to Taksim Square and then take the M2 metro from Taksim to Şışlı.
What to see. There are no sights in Şişli, but there is one of the biggest shopping centers in Europe – Cevahir. I also paid attention to Abdi İpekçi Caddesi street. There are luxury brand stores like Gucci and Louis Vuitton.
Lodging. There are fewer hotels in Şişli than in Fatih and Beyoğlu, but more than in Beşiktaş. Hotels with medium to high prices prevail. I was impressed by the Hilton Istanbul Bosphorus. It was opened in 1955 – it was the first Hilton in Europe.
Transportation. The Metrobus connects Şişli with neighborhoods in the west and east of the city. You can get to Sultanahmet in 30 minutes by metro. Shishli also offers an unusual mode of transportation – a cable car. It passes over the Democracy Park. The park itself is nothing special, but I rode the cable car over it with interest.
Other features. There are a lot of people on the streets of Shishli and a lot of traffic on the roads. I hardly met any travelers. It’s an ordinary residential neighborhood in a metropolis – something between a bedroom suburb and bustling Beyoglu.
What’s the bottom line. In my opinion, it makes no sense for a tourist to stay in Şişli. The cost of long-term rentals is high – if you are coming to Istanbul for a long time, it is better to look at Bakırköy. But if you live in the neighborhood, for example in Beyoğlu, you can visit the shopping malls here.
