My husband and I were going to Bali in December 2019, but it was off season there. We decided to go to Sri Lanka.
We knew nothing about the country except that there were tea plantations, blue whales and beautiful sunsets. My relatives were afraid that the island was drowned in garbage and unsanitary: India was next door. And on forums they said that Sri Lanka is Bali 10 years ago, authentic and undeveloped. There are mostly Germans, Australians and Russians vacationing there.
Sri Lanka is a great place to relax with kids and party with friends. There are different beaches, calm water without waves and places for snorkeling, reefs and waves with human height, 20-meter gentle entrance to the water and a slow spot for surfers.
In my opinion, the former Ceylon is a solid contrast worth seeing. I have gathered all the most important things: when to go to Sri Lanka, what to see, what to save money on, and what is better not to do.
Introductory data
When it’s in season: year-round, but in different neighborhoods.
Average seasonal temperature: +31 °C during the day and +25 °C at night.
Currency: Sri Lankan rupee, LKR.
Language: official – Sinhalese and Tamil, in the tourist areas know English.
Weather
Sri Lanka is good for vacationing all year round, except for April and October: during this time the island is cloudy and rainy. You should choose a resort depending on the month.
January through March is a great time to vacation on the popular southwest coast: Colombo, Negombo, Bentota, Hikkaduwa, Unawatuna, Weligama and Mirissa. The sun is scorching and the ocean is warm and clear.
Cloudiness is not predictable on the tropical island, but precipitation is almost non-existent. The average temperature in January in Hikkaduwa is +30 °C during the day and +25 °C at night. Water temperatures are +28 °C. The climate in the cities on the southwest coast is about the same, and so are the temperatures.
From January to March, the weather is clear and dry in the center of the island: Kandy and Sigiriya, the highlands of Ella and Nuwara Eliya, the coldest region of Sri Lanka. The average temperature in Kandy is +30 °C during the day and +20 °C at night, in Ella – +27 and +16 °C, in Nuwara Eliya – +21 and +10 °C.
On the northeastern coast – Trincomalee, Kalkud and Pasikud – it is cloudy. There are rainy days, but it is quite warm: +30 °C during the day and +24 °C at night.
In April and May, the rains begin and there is a period of unbearable heat in the southwest of the island. It also rains in the center, but daytime temperatures are about the same as in the dry season.
In the northeast, it is the dry season and hot: +32 °C during the day and +26 °C at night. The water in the ocean is like fresh milk – +30 °C.
June and July are the peak season in the north-east. It is +35 °C during the day and +26 °C at night. In these months it is worth to see the central cities near Kandy and Sigiriya: it is dry there, +29 °C during the day and +22 °C at night. High-altitude resorts and the south of the island are flooded in summer.
August and September is the high dry season on the northeast coast and in the center of the island. Temperatures hold at the same level. In the highlands you can catch sunny days in early August. In September, it rains again.
In October, the island is once again experiencing the change of seasons. It is rainy and cloudy in all parts of the island.
In November and December, the weather in the southwest of the island begins to improve. During this period it rarely rains, it is cloudy and not hot. Temperatures in Hikkaduwa are +30 °C during the day and +24 °C at night.
Cities of Sri Lanka
Colombo is the unofficial capital and largest city of Sri Lanka. Colombo is mainly used as a transit point to get to other parts of the island.
Colombo’s historic Pettah district is home to the main bus and train stations, as well as a market whose nauseating aroma will forever linger in my memory.
Colombo has a lot of 30-storey skyscrapers, sidewalks, quite green and clean. The scenery is like typical Asia: skyscrapers overhead, moldy houses in front of your eyes. We didn’t find anything interesting there. For a short walk or a rest after a long flight, it’s just right.
Negombo is a resort town 15 kilometers from Sri Lanka’s only international airport Bandaranaike. Travelers choose Negombo to stay a couple of nights and start or end their Sri Lanka trip.
The forums say that it is a city with a rich history and picturesque beaches. We stayed there only for a day to rest after the flight, so our plans did not include sightseeing. But I can definitely say that the beaches in Negombo are not the best option for a vacation.
When we arrived, the town was in disrepair. We met a couple of foreigners, the cafes and stores were mostly closed. We never found anywhere to change money. I think the lack of tourists was a result of the terrorist attacks in April 2019.
Hikkaduwa is one of Sri Lanka’s most popular resorts, but you can hardly call it a city. Hikka is more like a tropical village: shops with pineapple-print shirts, trendy cafes with freshly squeezed juices and avocado toast, surfboard rentals and tour stalls.
We lived just in Hikkaduwa. We were attracted by the description on forums: travelers noted that there are a lot of young people, parties and the most beautiful beaches on the island. We were 22 years old, so we wanted to live closer to this atmosphere.
Hikkaduwa has a long, picturesque and multifunctional beach: in different parts of it you can go snorkeling, swimming in the bay and surfing. It is mainly frequented by Germans, Australians and Russians.
Galle is a fairly large town by Lankan standards, filled with markets and supermarkets, with terrible traffic.
This is where you go to see the Unesco heritage of Fort Galle. It was built during the Dutch rule on the island. The fort has its own entourage, unlike the rest of Sri Lanka: old Europeanized streets with paving stones, trendy cafes and expensive shops with clothes. There is also the famous lighthouse, which has become a symbol of Sri Lanka.
Unawatuna, Weligama and Mirissa are popular resorts for family vacations. Una has a calm bay and package vacationers, while Veligama has slow waves and surfing for beginners.
Mirissa is a large resort village. It is convenient for wintering and surfing. From November to April, people go to Mirissa to see blue whales.
We were in Mirissa at the height of the whale migration and couldn’t pass up the opportunity to see the animals. The blue whale tour is a lottery. You can get up at 6am, walk out into the ocean and see nothing. We were extremely lucky: we spotted a few fins and spins. A small whale swam a couple of meters from the ship. In 2023, an excursion for two people costs from 16,000 LKR, you can sign up at any travel agency in Mirissa.
You can swim with blue whales. It is illegal, but there are fishermen who take tourists for such entertainment. In 2020, the service cost from $200 per person.
Kalkuda, Pasikuda and Trincomalee. During the rainy season, expats and locals from the south move there. Due to the long drive from the airport and poor infrastructure, these towns are not very popular with tourists. We didn’t make it there in time.
Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa. Anuradhapura was the first capital of Sri Lanka from the 4th to the 11th century and Polonnaruwa was the second. People go there to see the ruins of ancient cities dating back to the centuries BC and the Middle Ages and listed by Unesco.
Travelers recommend these cities only to those who have not been to Ankor Wat in Cambodia: the ruins of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa are less spectacular. We were pressed for time and had already planned a trip to Cambodia, so we didn’t go there.
Pinnawela is famous for the elephant nursery of the same name. It is convenient to stop there from Colombo on the way to Kandy.
In Pinnawela, we spent the night in a hotel overlooking an elephant bathing area. A night in Elephant Bay in 2023 costs 10,000 LKR. I would not recommend spending a separate day to visit the reserve: two hours is enough to see the elephants, and there are no attractions in the surrounding area.
Kandy is a noisy, dusty and sultry city. From there you can go to Colombo, Sigiriya and Nuwara Eliya.
Despite the beginning of the highlands, Kandy retains a coastal climate. One stops there to see the Buddha Tooth Temple and the Royal Palace.
The Royal Botanical Garden of Peradeniya is located 6 kilometers from Kandy, the entrance fee in 2023 costs 2000 LKR. It is boring to walk around, but plant lovers may enjoy it.
30 kilometers away, there is the Ambuluwawa temple complex, or the Temple of the Four Religions. It is definitely worth a visit. Climbing up the high tower overlooking the mountains is an extreme and spectacular entertainment. The higher you go, the steeper the climb and the stronger the wind. But the views are worth it. Entrance costs 300 LKR.
Nuwara Eliya is called the tea capital of Sri Lanka. We read advice on forums like “Feel the spirit of colonial Sri Lanka and spend a day in Nuwara Eliya” and stopped in the city for a day. It turned out that there is nothing to do there and nowhere to go. All the significant places are in the surrounding area. I would advise you to stay there for a night at most.
Near Nuwara Eliya are endless tea plantations, numerous waterfalls, tea factories, Lipton’s Seat lookout, the famous Adam’s Peak and the Horton Plains National Park. I will tell you more about it next.
Nuwara Eliya is the coldest part of the island. When the sun was at its zenith, the thermometer barely reached +19…20 °C. At the same time in Hikkaduwa it was +32 °C. At night, the temperature in Elia dropped to +13 °C.
Sigiriya is famous for once being the capital of Sri Lanka. The 200 meter high rocky plateau called Lion Rock was the royal residence. The rock and the area around it are listed as a Unesco World Heritage Site. The entrance ticket to Sigiriya costs $30 and can be purchased on the official website of the attraction.
The owner of our gesta advised us to come to Lion Rock to the very opening – by 06:00-06:30. We did so, but even at that time there were already enough people there. When we left at 08:30 there were incredible crowds on the rock.
It is convenient to combine a trip to Sigiriya with a visit to Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa. The city is warm, but it is better to bring a hoodie for the evening, night and early morning.
Dambulla is a town near Sigiriya, famous for the cave temples of the same name. It is a big transportation hub: from there you can go to any part of the island.
In 2023, entry to the caves costs LKR 1,500. If you’re wearing shorts and open shoulders, you’ll have to take a sarong for 200 LKR, a traditional piece of Asian closet that looks like a long skirt.
Attractions in Sri Lanka
Horton Plains, or Horton Plateau, is a national park on a vast plateau surrounded by the highest mountains in Sri Lanka. It is located 25 kilometers from Nuwara Eliya.
People come to the park for the 9-kilometer trek and the incredible “World’s End” observation deck. It is so named because it is located on a sheer cliff about 900 meters high.
It is better to arrive at the plateau by 07:00, not later. Then there is a chance to enjoy the nature and walk in silence. Before the start of the trek to the park, you should take a tuk-tuk or a cab. In the nearest towns, this service will be offered in all hotels. The driver will drop you off, wait for you to pass the track and take you back. In 2020, a tuk-tuk ride from Ambulawa – the village where we spent the night – to Nuwara Eliya cost LKR 3,700.
The cost of a ticket to the park is made up of entrance fees for people and vehicle fare. Prices for locals and foreigners differ about 100 times not in favor of tourists. In 2020, a ticket for two people including tuk-tuk cost us 7550 LKR. In the reviews write that in 2023 the price changes every week: the entrance ticket per person costs from 3000 LKR to 6000-7000 LKR. In my opinion, it is definitely not possible to walk quickly: there is a long mountain serpentine leading to the park. From the park entrance to the beginning of the track is about 3 km.
Adam’s Peak, or Sri Pada, is a 2,243 meter high mountain with 5,381 steps leading to the top. It is a sacred place for Buddhists, Muslims, Christians and Hindus. Representatives of faiths from all over the world come there to make a pilgrimage to the top of the mountain to the footprint that, according to legend, Adam left when he descended to earth.
Travelers go up the mountain to see the most beautiful sunrise. The climb is difficult, but not as difficult as it is often described. Even my husband, who does not like to walk much, overcame it calmly.
I advise you to start climbing at 02:00-02:30. The way to the top will take about three hours. Between 06:00 and 06:30 it starts to get light. Be sure to bring your tights, light jacket, hoodie or hat: it is cold and windy on the summit. If you don’t want to lug warm clothes, you can buy them at the foot of the mountain. In 2020, a hat cost 150 LKR, a plush jacket cost 1000 LKR.
If you plan to look at Adam’s footprint, take thick, warm socks. The print is in a temple that you are not allowed into with shoes on. The stones are icy.
You don’t need water and snacks: on the way up the mountain, every 700 meters there are cheap stores and cafes where you can drink coffee and buy a snack. Soluble coffee cost us 80 LKR and a banana 150 LKR.
Adam’s Peak is located in the village of Dalhousie. The closest way to reach it is from the town of Hatton. In 2020, a bus ticket cost 100 LKR. Due to the fact that most of the road is serpentine on the edge of a steep cliff, it takes about an hour to drive 25 km. The views along the Hutton to Dalhousie road are, in my opinion, the most beautiful in Sri Lanka: tea plantations, lakes and mountains all around.
The Nine Arch Bridge is a landmark from Ahmad English Breakfast tea packs. The bridge was built of bricks, without the use of steel, during the period when Ceylon was a British colony.
The attraction is located between Ella and Demodara. It can be reached from Ella: first by road, then through the jungle.
If you want to watch a train pass over the bridge, go to Ella railway station and check the time. But be aware: trains in Sri Lanka are not the most punctual mode of transportation.
Little Adam’s Peak is a mountain that offers beautiful views of the highlands of Sri Lanka. The viewpoint is easily accessible by an asphalt path. Particularly extreme tourists ride along it on a bike or tuk-tuk. I don’t recommend it: the road is steep, with precipices.
There is a Flying Ravana Mega Zipline on the mountain, which you can ride for $25. Nearby is the Newburgh Green Teas Factory. It is open Monday through Friday and you can see how the tea is processed. In 2020, the tour cost LKR 1500 per person. We came on a Sunday, so we were only offered a free tea tasting.
Money
The national currency of Sri Lanka is the Sri Lankan rupee. Banknotes look funny – bright colors, with birds and butterflies. The minimum denomination of a coin is 1 LKR, the maximum is 10 LKR. The minimum denomination of a banknote is 10 LKR, the maximum is 5000 LKR.
Cash is required in Sri Lanka. You can pay by cashless payment only in supermarkets and some cafes. To exchange for local currency, it is better to take new blue dollar bills of $100 face value. They cost 100-200 LKR higher than the old ones, it is not known why.
Oddly enough, it is better to change money immediately upon arrival at the airport: the exchange rate there is the same as everywhere else on the island. In southern towns like Hikkaduwa, you can change money at tour stalls. Sometimes they underestimate the exchange rate, so refer to the exchange rate at the airport and haggle.
Our experience of traveling in Asia shows that withdrawing money from ATMs is more profitable than carrying cash. ATMs in Sri Lanka are found everywhere, even in the most remote towns. The state-owned banks Bank of Ceylon and Peoples Bank dispense money without commission.
Housing
If you’re here for a couple of weeks, I recommend renting through an aggregator like Ostrovka. For those who are here for several months, I recommend walking the streets in search of For Rent signs. You can also look for an apartment or a house for any length of time in the following channels: “Housing in Sri Lanka”, South Ceylon Rent.
The cost of housing depends on the availability of air conditioning, swimming pool, hot water, washing machine, interior, distance from the ocean. In 2023 in high season you can rent a room for 400-600 $. For this money you will get a room with a kitchen, hot water, air conditioning in the bedroom or a pool. A modest room with a shared kitchen in a villa will cost 300-400 $.
A one-room house with a kitchen and a bedroom costs from 600-800$ per month, a villa – from 1000$, a house with a pool – from 1300$.
We found a house 7km from Hikkaduwa beach, in the Gonapinuuola neighborhood, through Telegram. The apartment had a kitchen-dining room, a separate bedroom, a bathroom, a fan in each room, hot water and a swimming pool on the premises.
In 2020, the house cost $250 a month. It was cheap. The price was lowered because the house was under construction: the second floor was ready for living, and the first floor looked like a concrete box. The owner didn’t have the money to finish the construction, so we didn’t suffer from noise and dust.
What to try in Sri Lanka
The food on the island is very simple, not always tasty, but locals are not bothered by it. The basis of Lankan cuisine is rice and curry in all variations: with fish, seafood, chicken, beef, vegetables. Curries are often served with five or six small plates of vegetables and spices. In 2020, a serving cost 900 LKR. The dish is accompanied by papadam, a bloated crispy bread flatbread resembling chips.
The cheapest Sri Lankan dish I have ever encountered is roti. It is a flatbread made of wheat flour that looks and tastes like pita bread. Roti is sold in different variations: as a pancake with filling, a thick flatbread or a triangular cake. I paid 250 LKR for a roti with cheese and avocado in 2020.
Another interesting dish is kottu, or kottu roti. This is finely chopped roti fried with chicken, seafood or vegetables. The price for a portion with chicken started from 400 LKR.
I liked the non-alcoholic ginger beer that the Lankans inherited from the British. It has an unusual island flavor. A bottle of about 300 ml in a café cost 140 LKR.
The famous Ceylon tea didn’t surprise me: it tastes completely ordinary. In 2020, a six-cup kettle in a café cost 250 LKR, one cup cost 50-80 LKR.
Cafes and restaurants in Sri Lanka
If a tourist in Vietnam or Thailand wants real authentic food, he goes where the locals eat. In Sri Lanka, this rule does not work. I did not notice Lankans actively going to cafes.
Most establishments on the island are about the same, with shabby and dirty interiors. The menu offers curry, roti and kotta. In 2020 we paid 2000 LKR for dinner for two. At 2023, Sri Lanka has trendy places with smoothie bowls and avocado toast. Prices here are 1.5-2 times higher than in other cafes.
Most tourist cafes sell fried rice with various additives, fried shrimp or other seafood with fries, pizza and a few curry variants. Drinks include milkshakes, freshly squeezed juice and lassi – yogurt with juice.
Stores and markets in Sri Lanka
Stores. The island has fixed prices for many items. The cost is printed right on the packaging. It doesn’t matter where you buy them: at a stall by the roadside or in a supermarket.
Supermarkets of global chains are not to be found on the island. In major cities like Colombo, Galle, Kandy, Nuwara Eliya there is a Lankan chain of Keels stores. These are pleasant supermarkets with a standard set of goods, a pharmacy and a department with fresh and tasty pastries.
Small beach towns have minimarkets with a standard range of products from groceries to household items. In Hikkaduwa, for example, this is the Sandagiri store.
Markets. Every town in Sri Lanka has hundreds of stalls on the streets with clothes, local food and fruit. It’s dirty, fragrant and has a special charm.
Lankans are not very willing to bargain as is common in Asia, especially in the coastal cities. But prices are low enough as it is. It’s nice that the locals are not at all clingy: they don’t pull your hands and shout after you.
Sometimes cities have one-day markets. On Sundays we went to such a market in Hikkaduwa. It opened at 06:00 and worked until noon. They sold fruits, vegetables and spices. We bought only fruits. They were cheaper than the stalls on the streets.
Levi’s, Calvin Klein and Victoria’s Secret are located on the island. The Lankans who work in the factories pick up items that are defective or simply stolen, cut off or taped with tags.
In any beach stall in 2020, an original Levi’s T-shirt with the label cut off cost LKR 1,200, Victoria’s Secret panties cost LKR 1,650.
Transportation
Traffic in Sri Lanka is even more peculiar than in Vietnam or Thailand. Here, the bus is in charge of the road. It runs at breakneck speed, on the oncoming traffic and does not notice other road users. Bikes in Sri Lanka are driven more intuitively than according to the rules. But public transportation on the island is ideally developed – you can get anywhere.
City buses can take you to any part of the island for a nominal fee. In 2020, a fare from Colombo Fort stop to Hikkaduwa cost LKR 144, which is 136 km! On the downside: the number of passengers, as well as the speed of travel, is virtually unlimited on buses. Be prepared to ride standing up in a packed, stuffy cabin at a speed of 70 km/h.
You do not need to buy a ticket in advance. You can pay for the fare directly on the bus. There are no familiar bus numbers: the number above the glass is the number of the route on which the bus runs.
The train is a local attraction in Sri Lanka. The carriage doors between trains are always open. You can stick out of them and take pictures of the gorgeous scenery.
Traveling by rail has a few disadvantages. First of all, trains are not always on time: they can be 20 minutes or 2 hours late. Also, the tracks are not laid across the island, so the trip often takes longer than by bus.
Timetables and routes are available at any station. Tickets are sold there as well. The cost depends on the class. There are three classes, I will tell you about each.
First class – with air conditioning and comfortable seats. When buying a ticket for such a carriage, the passenger reserves a seat: you will definitely travel sitting down. Trains with first class cars run less frequently than second or third class. Tickets should be bought with a passport and in advance. Seats for popular destinations, especially towards Ella, sell out quickly. In 2023, a first class fare from Colombo Fort station to Kandy costs 950 LKR.
The second class carriages also have seats, but there are no air conditioners – only fans. Tickets are sold according to a strange system. Let’s say there are six second-class cars on a train. In three of them you can buy tickets in advance, in the rest – only 15 minutes before departure. If you managed to pay the fare in advance, you will go sitting, if not, you will have to stand. In 2023, from Colombo Fort station to Kandy in second class costs LKR 500.
There are no seats in third class, only benches. Locals travel there, and tickets are even cheaper. The carriages look uncomfortable, so we did not board them. In 2023, a third class fare from Colombo Fort station to Kandy costs LKR 250.
Cab. It is advantageous to order a car through the Pick me app. You can pay by card or cash. It is more expensive to catch a cab on the street.
In any of the apps you can order a car or a tuk-tuk, a local transportation that looks like a bike with a roof. If you need to travel alone, light and short distances, I suggest choosing a tuk-tuk. It is more maneuverable than a car and will get you to your destination faster. It’s also cheaper. In 2020, a tuk-tuk ride via Uber from Colombo Fort Station to the Department of Immigration and Emigration cost LKR 362, while a car ride cost a minimum of LKR 444.
If you choose the cheapest car in the application, a compact model without a trunk will arrive. In this case, you will have to put your suitcases on the front seat. In other types of cabs, everything is as usual: there are spacious models and minivans.
Motorcycles and scooters are an option for those who are confident in their driving abilities.
The penalty for riding without a license in Sri Lanka is a fine of LKR 25,000 to the driver and owner of the bike and seizure of the vehicle.
Internet
Sri Lanka has good 3G and LTE coverage. Connectivity can be lost in the mountains and between towns. By 2023, Sri Lanka had fiber optics, but wifi is not available everywhere. In houses and villas it is often weak.
If it’s important for you to stay in touch, buy a SIM card at the airport and give out internet from your phone. We chose Dialog operator: it has excellent coverage around the island. In 2020, a simcard for 30 days cost 1300 LKR. The price included 12 GB of internet: 8 GB at any time of day and 4 GB from 00:00 to 08:00. 66 GB would cost 2949 LKR. Half of the traffic can be spent during the day and the other half at night. More information about the tariffs is available on Dialog’s website.
You can renew your current tariff or change to a new one via the Dialog application.
When moving around the island, 3G works steadily, LTE more often. But we also met such a forgotten letter E.
What to bring back from Sri Lanka
Ayurvedic cosmetics, wooden masks, jewelry made of precious and semi-precious stones and, of course, the famous Ceylon tea can be brought from the island. In 2020, a 50g packet of tea sold for 600 LKR in tourist stores. A pack of the same volume in a popular factory can cost up to 6,000 LKR.
If you prefer sending postcards to souvenirs, I suggest you stop by the nearest post office. In 2020, postcards cost 30 LKR, stamps 35 LKR.
Safety rules
In general, Sri Lanka is a safe island. Most Lankans treat foreigners with respect. The locals deal harshly with those who have treated guests improperly.
In Sri Lanka you should also beware of theft: thieves take only what can be resold or kept without consequences. While no one was in our house, all the currency was stolen from our neighbors’ apartment: Sri Lankan rupees, Philippine pesos, and even a jar with souvenir coins from different countries. The thieves did not take a laptop, camera or tablet.
Another unpleasant story happened to our friends. While they were sleeping, money, a closed bottle of elite alcohol, new headphones in a package, jeans and slippers were taken from the villa.
To make sure your vacation in Sri Lanka goes without adventure, I would advise you to stick to the following rules:
- When returning home in the late evening, try to walk along crowded and well-lit streets. Keep your bag, phone and wallet so that they are difficult to snatch, or better yet, out of sight.
- Leave the lights on when you leave your home or hotel. Lock doors, hide valuables or give them to a trusted person, such as a hotel receptionist, for safekeeping. This is especially true around New Year’s Eve, when thefts are high.
- Hide valuables in non-obvious places, not in books or suitcases. As a Lankan explained to us, these same places are chosen by the locals themselves.
- Do not take jewelry, phones and large sums of money to the beach. If you can’t do without them, don’t show your valuables to others.
- When you leave to go swimming, ask someone to watch your belongings.
- Before renting a bike, take pictures from all angles and record a video. I advise you to take a picture of the trunk from the inside: I had to pay for a chip on the side wall that we didn’t capture. In 2020, after much haggling, the fine was reduced from 5000 LKR to 3000 LKR.
- Be careful on the roads. Sometimes locals intentionally brake sharply or drive without parking lights to create accidents.
- Use mosquito protection: mosquitoes carry dengue fever, which is common in Southeast Asia. The fever lasts up to seven days and is accompanied by a rash, high fever and enlarged lymph nodes. There is a dengue vaccine, but it is only given to those who have already had the disease.
