Whether it’s sipping fresh coconut juice on an azure beach, swimming with fish, relaxing at a spa, exploring Buddhist temples, gazing at the ocean from viewpoints or partying on a yacht, the Thai island of Koh Samui is rich in activities and attractions. People come here to relax away from the crowds of tourists, intimate parlors and noisy parties.
At the beginning of the pandemic, I escaped from China to Thailand and spent the first 10 months on the island of Samui, where I found size, a good standard of living, efficiency and closeness to nature. I will tell you what to see on the island, how to get here and what to do.
What to see in Koh Samui
Samui is Thailand’s second largest island, located in the Gulf of Thailand. It appeared on maps only at the end of the 17th century, when a permanent connection with the mainland was established. The first settlers appeared here supposedly in the VI century and were fishermen from the Malay Archipelago.
The history of the island is shrouded in legends – it is believed that pirates hid here for centuries. Up until the second half of the XX century, the island lived isolated from the mainland. By the 1980s, the first roads appeared on Samui and organized tourism began to develop.
At almost every turn on the island you can see Buddhist temples built in different styles. They are decorated with giant statues of deities, colorful altars, huge snake-nagas, and Wat Khunaram temple even houses a mummified monk. There are also remnants of Chinese cultural influence on the island, such as the characteristic buildings at Natong Pier and several Chinese-style temples.
Big Buddha
Tourists arrive on the island by ferry or airplane from various parts of Thailand, including Bangkok. The first thing that catches your eye on approach to Samui is the 12-meter gilded Buddha statue. It is located on a small picturesque island connected to Samui by an embankment, which is pleasant to walk along.
The temple and statue were built in 1972. The Buddha is depicted in the pose of “Calling the Earth as Witness”: the left hand rests on the foot with the palm upwards, while the right hand points to the earth. According to Buddhist mythology, the demon Mara demanded that Siddhartha produce witnesses to his enlightenment. In response, the Buddha touched the earth with his hand, and the planet proclaimed: “Affirmation!”. The posture is a symbol of steadfastness, purity and enlightenment.
Be sure to stroll around the temple and visit souvenir stores selling local jewelry, singing bowls and other authentic items. Finish your visit with a cup of cappuccino at one of the coffee shops scattered around the area.
Entrance is free of charge. Opening hours: 07:00-18:30.
You can reach the temple by rented transportation or cab.
Plai Laem Temple
Not far from the Big Buddha, there is another temple complex worth visiting. On the shore of the lake there are colorful statues of Chinese deities and spirits: the eighteen-torso goddess of mercy Guan Yin, who gives joy and prosperity, the Laughing Buddha, huge snakes-nagi. The pond near the temple complex is inhabited by sacred carp. You can feed the fish by paying 30 baht for a pack of food.
Admission is free.
Guan Yin is traditionally depicted as multi-armed. It is believed that the Buddha endowed her with a thousand hands so that she could reach and help all those in need.
Fisherman Village Fisherman Village
After seeing the main symbol of the island, I suggest heading to the western part of the island. The first stop is Bo Phut beach, where fishermen used to live, and nowadays there is a pleasant street with cozy cafes and souvenir shops. In the evenings there is a night market with live music.
Be sure to stop by here – you’ll find a huge selection of Thai appetizers, from grilled calamari to coconut ice cream.
Central Festival Shopping Center
One of the best places for shopping and leisure on the island. In addition to your favorite brands – Uniclo, Crocs, Adidas and others, you’ll find a movie theater (Hollywood novelties are shown in English with Thai subtitles), a children’s carousel, a dozen cafes and stores of local designers. Live music is often played in the mall in the evenings, and the supermarket on the first floor has a good selection of wine, cheeses and other non-Thai products.
Hours of operation: 11:00-21:00.
Lad Koh Lookout
A point where you can take beautiful photos against the backdrop of sea-washed rocks or simply admire the island from above. There’s no need to climb the mountain through the jungle – the site is located right on the ring road between Chaweng and Lamai beaches. Be sure to take the stairs down to the rocks and admire the waves – the walk takes only five minutes and is easy even for children.
Admission is free.
Address: F3X5+JX5, Tambon Bo Put, Ko Samui District, Surat Thani.
Chrystal Bay Beach
Near the Chrystal Bay Beach Resort is a Small bay with crystal clear water and white sand. The beach is free and open to all. Here you can dive and watch colorful fish – most of them are near the rocks located far from the shore.
To get a feel for the atmosphere, I recommend staying here for a couple of nights. It has everything you need for a relaxing vacation: rooms on a hill overlooking the sea, a restaurant and even a massage.
Tarnim Magic Garden
One of the most memorable places on the island. The landscaped garden is located by a picturesque waterfall lost in the mountain jungle. On the banks of the stream are monks’ huts and sculptures referring to various Buddhist themes.
The garden was built by Khum Nim, a famous Samui farmer who excelled in growing durians, a tropical fruit with a foul odor and creamy taste. In his declining years, he decided to ennoble a piece of his family’s land and planted a garden on it in honor of the Buddha.
The best way to get here is by SUV – the steep uphill road can be dangerous for a scooter, especially after rain. The easiest way to find a car for rent is through the locals’ chat rooms on Telegram, and you can also use the Grab cab service. You can buy a tour with a visit to the magic garden at tourist shops.
Along the way, you will have panoramic views of the island. Take mosquito spray with you – there are plenty of mosquitoes in the thickets of durian farms.
Opening hours: 9:00-17:00.
Admission is 80 baht.
Grandma and Grandpa rocks
A piece of coastline in the Lamai area has become famous for two rocks that look very much like male and female genitalia. One of the legends says that the rocks appeared here when an elderly Thai couple wrecked on the shores of Lamai when they went to marry their son and got caught in a storm.
The best time to admire the view is at sunrise or 11-12 noon. It’s easy to get here via the ring road – the Makro supermarket is a good reference point. You only have to pay to park your bike (10 baht) or car (50 baht).
The place is worth visiting not so much because of the unusually shaped stones, but because of the great view. As you approach the site, you will come across shops where you can buy candies or homemade coconut oil.
Wat Sila Ngu Red Temple
One of the most picturesque temples on the island, especially popular with locals because of the golden pagoda that houses Buddhist relics. The shrine was built about a hundred years ago. There is an observation deck and a spectacular staircase decorated with snake-naga sculptures. It leads to the coast, where you can enjoy a great view of the surrounding area – a peaceful spot perfect for a small picnic.
Guan Yu Chinese Sanctuary
A temple built by descendants of Chinese settlers from Hainan Island, who settled Samui in the XV-XVI centuries. The complex is decorated with a giant statue of the famous warlord Guan Yu. He was famous for his wisdom, bravery and honesty, participated in the founding of the kingdom of Shu, the head of the army of which he later became, even became the hero of the Chinese historical novel “Three Kingdoms”. After Confucius, the cult of Guan Yu was one of the most revered in China.
Admission is free.
Where and what to eat in Koh Samui
Traditional Thai food such as spicy curries, pad thai noodles, papaya salad, spicy tom yum soup with seafood and tom kha with coconut milk are a must-try on the island. If you want to take a break from Asian cuisine, it’s easy to find something more familiar, with European cafes and restaurants scattered all over the island.
Café K.O.B By The Sea is a pleasant seaside spot with delicious breakfasts, pastries, cakes and decent coffee. The specialty is poached eggs with avocado and salmon. American breakfast can be safely divided for two. The average check is 300 baht.
Tree House Cafe on Maenam Beach – suitable for lunch or dinner on the beach. The place is very cozy, the menu includes Thai and European dishes. The cooks do their job perfectly and even prepare traditional khao-soi soup from the north of Thailand.
The average check is 400 ba.
2 Fishes in Fisherman Village is a place for fish and seafood lovers with a wide selection and a decent wine list. It has an open kitchen, so the food is cooked right in front of your eyes. The average bill is 800 baht.
Two Sister in the Manam neighborhood is an institution with very democratic prices, a separate vegan menu and excellent juicy burgers. Everything is cooked on homemade bread, and there are homemade desserts available. The average check is 200 baht.
Amazon Cafe on the waterfront – can be combined with a visit to the Guan Yu shrine. The place is great for a coffee break, especially good with iced coffee, lemon juice and honey. From here you have a good view of the sea, you can sit either right on the shore or on the second floor in a cozy air-conditioned lounge.
The night market at Nathon Pier is a pleasant and budget-friendly dining option. The food selection is huge, from grilled Thai kebabs to chicken pita and homemade brownies. The average check is 150 baht.
When to go to Koh Samui
The most successful and popular time to visit the island is January-February, when the air temperature during the day is +29-30°, and the water temperature is +27.9°. During this period, the most vacationers come to the island and accommodation prices increase.
From March to May is the hottest season, during the day the air can heat up to +35-40 ° degrees, the water temperature is about +30 °. If you are not afraid of heat and humidity, this is not a bad period for a vacation.
From June to September the heat subsides, rare precipitations fall, the air temperature stays at +31-33° degrees, water – +29-30°. There are few tourists during this period, prices for accommodation are reduced, so you can call this period the most successful for a budget vacation.
September-December is the rainy season on Samui, with temperatures of around 28-29°. The peak is in November, when rainfall is particularly heavy, waves rise on the beaches and it is not very pleasant to drive on waterlogged roads.
How to get around the island
As in most places in Thailand, scooters are very popular on Samui, but thanks to the excellent roads here it is convenient to get around by car. Rent a bike for a day will cost from 200 baht, for a month from 4000 baht. Mopeds are for rent everywhere on the island, most of all in crowded areas like Chaweng – look for them by the signs “Bikes for rent”. Vehicles can also be found on the island’s lifestyle chat rooms (search for “Samui”).
As a rule, you will be asked to sign a contract stating the terms and conditions of use of the vehicle and the amount of fine in case of delay or accident. You will be asked to leave your passport, driver’s license or a few thousand baht as a deposit. When renting a moped, I recommend taking photos of the moped to document any damage and not to pay extra money for repairs when you return it. The same rules apply to car rentals, except that it will be harder to find a car, and it will cost at least 7000-10,000 baht per month.
It usually takes 15-20 minutes by moped to get to the main attractions and cafes. If you need to travel from one part of the island to another, it can take up to an hour.
For those who don’t like to drive, there is an online cab service called Grab (install the app when you arrive in Thailand). A trip within the area will cost around 200-300 baht. Motorcycle cabs are also popular on the island. Their drivers wear yellow or orange reflective vests with a license plate that sometimes says “Taxi”. They often hail pedestrians right off the road, stopping near them and offering a ride. A scooter will give a passenger a ride for 200 baht.
What else to do on Koh Samui
Facial, foot and full-body massages and numerous spa procedures are waiting for you in the salons scattered around the island. Travel agencies offer snorkeling and diving tours in the surrounding area, for example, to the AngThong Marine Reserve.
If you want to learn meditation from real Thai monks, sign up for a week-long retreat at the Dipabhavan Center, which runs from the 11th to the 18th of each month. The center is located in a very picturesque place on top of a hill. The program is gentle, designed especially for beginners – a combination of sitting, walking and lying down meditations that last only 30 minutes each. Here you’ll enjoy vegetarian food, detox from the internet and devices, and immersion in yourself. Participation is free, but everyone is welcome to leave a donation at the end.
On average, an hour-long Thai massage session on the island costs 300 baht.
Which neighborhood to choose for living: the best options
Developed infrastructure is one of the main advantages of Samui. There is a ring road all over the island that leads to the main tourist areas. So no matter where you stay, it’s easy to get to the sights and beaches.
The conventional center can be called the Chaweng district, where the largest shopping center and nightclubs are located. The more tranquil Maenam is popular with families with children. Hotels and small resorts on the island are mixed with picturesque villas.
Manam Beach and surroundings
Six kilometers of golden sand and clear water with a gradual entrance to the depth – this bay is best suited for recreation with children. There are almost no waves and the water level is sufficient for swimming even at low tide. There are cafes and hotels with sun beds all over Manam, but the eastern part is more shady. The beach is perfect for those who want a quiet vacation. You can stay either in a small cozy Adanin Beach Resort or in the five-star W Hotel with unforgettable design, panoramic views, tennis court and several swimming pools.
Chaweng Beach and surroundings
The seven kilometer long coastline is a favorite of tourists. There are nightclubs, massage parlors, a shopping center, cafes and even an international Thai boxing stadium where you can watch a fight. Chaweng is one of the most crowded areas of the island, but it is always bustling with life. This is the place to stay for those looking for entertainment. There are plenty of accommodation options, look out for the beachfront Baan Samui Resort and the picturesque traditional Thai-style Muang Samui SPA hotel.
Lamai Beach
Another stretch of beach with Grandma and Grandpa rocks, beach bars, volleyball nets, kayaks and other activities. Beyond the shoreline stretch streets with restaurants, massage parlors and Thai boxing halls. The rainy season (September-December) brings high waves. Stay at the stylish beachfront resort with pool, gym and Jacuzzi, Pavilion Samui Villas & Resort, or the more modest Sand Sea Resort and SPA.
What to bring back from Samui
In addition to the aforementioned Central Festival and the evening market at Fisherman Village, check out the small Samui Health Shop in the Lamai neighborhood. It sells organic cosmetics, cotton kimonos and other clothes made from local fabrics, purses, dishes and other interesting items.
What traditions to know
Before traveling to Thailand, you should familiarize yourself with local traditions and etiquette.
- Observe the dress code when visiting temples – shoulders and knees should be covered, and you should enter the sanctuary undressed.
- Be respectful of Buddhism, Buddha, monks and members of the monarchy (you can go to jail for showing disrespect).
- Women are forbidden to speak to or touch the monks.
- In dealing with Thais, touching (especially on the head) is considered indecent. Instead of a friendly hug, respectful words will suffice.
- In Thailand, as in other Southeast Asian countries, they use the “wai” gesture – a bow with arms crossed at the chest, symbolizing respect or gratitude. There are different variations of it depending on the hierarchy of the interlocutor. It is better not to use “wai” first, but it is polite to respond to the gesture.
- Hugging and kissing in public is considered indecent.
Average prices in cafes and stores
A fresh coconut or fruit shake on the beach can be had for 70-100 baht. Buy fruits and vegetables at markets, small shops or Macro Supermarket. For 200 baht, you can usually buy a few kilograms of two to three kinds of fruit.
Dinner for two at a cafe will cost an average of 500 baht, a cup of Americano costs 70 baht.
If you want to grab a quick and cheap bite to eat or buy some small things, check out the 7/11 stores scattered everywhere. Here you can find sunscreen for 100 baht, batteries for 70 baht, a cheese and ham toast sandwich for 30 baht or a bottle of water for 10 baht.
Travel Tips
1. Wear a helmet when riding a bike – firstly, it is safer, and secondly, riding without a helmet is punishable by a 500 baht fine.
2. When riding a moped, beware of sandy areas (they are particularly slippery) and try to maintain a speed of 45-50 km/h.
3. Use sunscreen when you go outside – especially in the first few days, it’s easy to get burned, even if the sky is clouded over.
4. Pack a first aid kit before traveling. Stomach upsets are one of the most common problems for first-time tourists to Thailand. Be careful with cuts – due to the high humidity, wounds can start to fester and take a long time to heal. It is recommended to treat them with antibacterial cream.
5. To stay in touch, buy a local SIM card at the airport or at a provider’s office (look for AIS, Dtac signs). Unlimited internet from AIS costs only 200 baht per month.
6. Take out health insurance before traveling to Thailand. If you have any health problems, go to Koh Samui Hospital (government-run and cheaper).
7. Keep these phone numbers for emergencies:
- Emergency: 191
- Ambulance and rescue: 1554
- Medical emergency call: 1669
- Tourist police: 1155
